Air Filter Grill/Vent Placement

**joel0407** · 2nd September 2013, 03:35 PM

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

The other issue with any oiled filter is the residue getting into the MAF and the effects it has on it. A foam pre-filter in the snorkel before the paper would be fine.

I could imagine this being a problem with a Unifilter because I have seen them make a mess of air boxes but never used them on a vehicle with a MAF.

I have never seen a K&N foul a MAF and never found any oil past the filter. I have always used the K&N service kit with K&N specific oil in the aerosol can. The filter I bought for my Skoda came with a service kit but it has a bottle of oil not the aerosol spray. God know how I'm supposed to use that. I'll be just buying a new kit with the aerosol when I need it. I put my hand in a plastic shopping bag to hold the filter then spray away. The filters wash up to a faded pink and the filter oil is a red colour so it's not too hard to see where its applied and where it's not. Then I leave it out in the sun for a couple of hours to soak in and spread out. It's a bit time consuming, washing, waiting to dry, oiling, waiting, then refitting but it workes so why change.

Happy Days.

schuy1 · 2nd September 2013, 05:59 PM

when I got my first Unifilter (for the deefer) I followed the oiling instructions to the letter. And kept getting oil every where in the housing! I then worked out it was being overoiled and there after I would add oild insmall amounts , knead it around the bag and repeat until the foam was oily. That method seems to have solved the excess oil problem. For me any way

The oil in the MAF thing is something I watch carefully as I understand the probs it will cause. The only real issue I have with the uni in the D2 is the , to me at least, rubber seal( too soft and it appears to sag) and the small surface area. which does not in real life appear to affect airflow, as I noticed no fuel or pick up issues.

Cheers Scott

**Toppa** · 2nd September 2013, 07:18 PM

Hey Paul, just check the o-ring that seals the lid of the airbox to the pipe that goes to the MAF. I found that mine was old and hard and had developed a flat spot that was allowing fine dust to to be sucked in. Part was less than $10 from MLR. Just a thought.

**OffTrack** · 3rd September 2013, 07:56 AM

When I replaced the airbox lid to fit the 4 wire aap I used all new parts, so lid clips and o-ring are all less than 12 months old. The MAF to airbox fit is so tight I have to use the clips to lever the MAF into place.

Obviously those concerned about oil in the MAF don't drive TD5's. the cam cover breather vents into the intake 20cm downstream of the MAF. Try pulling the intake pipe off the MAF after a long run sometime!

**justinc** · 1st February 2014, 05:16 AM

Originally Posted by OffTrack

When I replaced the airbox lid to fit the 4 wire aap I used all new parts, so lid clips and o-ring are all less than 12 months old. The MAF to airbox fit is so tight I have to use the clips to lever the MAF into place.

Obviously those concerned about oil in the MAF don't drive TD5's. the cam cover breather vents into the intake 20cm downstream of the MAF. Try pulling the intake pipe off the MAF after a long run sometime!

hi paul,

be careful doing this as the o ring can roll/ distort in its groove. i always use a squirt of silicon spray before refitting to avoid this.

jc

**clubagreenie** · 1st February 2014, 08:09 AM

Dont worry the V8 runs in upstream so it dumps oil mist across the MAF or worse, join team BHG and it fills the MAF and airbox with milky oil/water mix.

Thread: Air Filter Grill/Vent Placement

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