Thread: Bleeding Brakes - Solo

Thanks
Then I might bleed brakes this way.
Run abs pump and bleed front and rear circuits.
Then with brake pedal method with ignition on.
Finally brake pedal method with ignition off.
Should bleed/flush modulator and circuits well then?

Should be fine I think.

It's digressing from the solo bleed as a full bleed really needs two people to do.

This is my Nanocom-fied version of the WABCO bleed procedure:


Manual Bleed Procedure with Electronic
Diagnostic Tools

NOTE: The electronic diagnostic tool must be
capable of actuating (energizing) the outlet
solenoid valves for each wheel for approximately
10 seconds and activating the pump of the
modulator. The inlet solenoid valve should be
open (de-energized). Both Nanocom and Hawkeye
diagnostic tools can be used to do this.

1. Apply the parking brake and chock the tires.
Turn the ignition OFF.

NOTE: The ignition must remain off for the
initial bleed procedure; energizing the unit
during bleeding must be impossible.

2. Perform brake bleed procedure for wet
module, bleeding the circuit and master
cylinder if required prior to connecting
diagnostic equipment.

3. Connect diagnostic equipment to OBDII port.

4. Turn ignition switch ON

5. Push on brake pedal with maximum force (firm
pedal) and hold.

6. Activate the Modulator Bleed function on the diagnostic tool
starting with Passenger Front.

7. Release brake pedal for 5 seconds and run the Power Bleed function
for approximately 5 seconds.

8. Repeat Steps 5 through 7 three additional
times.

9. Perform manual bleed on appropriate wheels.

10. Repeat Steps 5 through 9 for the remaining 3
brake actuators, working in order of Drivers Front, Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear.

NOTE: If a firm brake pedal resistance is felt and
the brake pedal pushes back when the solenoids
and pump are simultaneously actuated for each
brake circuit, the system bleed procedure is
complete. If there is no firm pedal resistance,
repeat the bleed procedure and/or look into brake
system defect, (leaks, etc.).

Thanks Franz. Tried pumping the pedal method with no result. Made a cable as suggested and I now have a full pedal. Great idea, loved it.

I tried using Franz’s Method today and have ballsed up. Probably not a good idea to do it in Melbourne showers today. I did 3 wheels successfully and then had time out as had to change an airbag as part of the service. Rained off for a while and when re-commenced on final wheel, this time I took the wrong relay out, the one next to the abs modulator, obviously didn’t work, there was some clicking from one of the yellow ones. So carried on and manually did the last wheel through pumping about 7 pumps and then tightened the nipple valve. Job done.

When I tried to drive, the brakes work a tiny bit, but the pedal is rock solid, and when I push really hard, it just about stops the car. What have I done, have I got air in the system, and anything else I could have done, other than that the car is running fine ?

another thought I should the reservoir is pretty full, if too full, could that create an issue ?

bugger, I was meant to help my neighbour pull a trailer in the morning. Lesson to be learned, only do one job at a time. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Matt.

sounds more like a lack of vacuum in the booster .

Err, can't you just use a Nanocom? Serious question.

Thanks guys, I will try the Nanocom and see if that works, but I also think discorevy might have a good point too as that also feels like it is what is happening, the pedal is so hard with no travel. Will do some checks and then use the Nanocom and see what happens.

Do a re-bleed from the start and dont get interupted, might solve the problem.


Cheers Ean