Thread: new radiator for TD5, please explain

Or this available from supercheap
WATER CAP 3/4" PAIR

Oil cooler still works as its in the engine block coolant flow.

Regards

Originally Posted by worane

I have been reading with awe all you have all been discussing.
I'm about to replace my Rad so thought I would cruise to see what is what in rads.
I have one question, and please feel free to shoot me down.
Could one not just bung a s/s bolt up a short cut off length of the redundant hose secured with a worm drive hose clamp? That would enable the rest of the "secret" hose to be removed.
That brings up another thought. What is the point in retaining the oil cooler.
Your thoughts please.
Regards, Nick.

What vehicle are we talking about? If you have a late model D2, you have the modified radiator. The early ones are divided into two chambers, the lower one being for the fuel cooler. The modified ones are a one chamber radiator, with a spigot with a restriction, feeding coolant to the fuel cooler.
I assume you are talking about the fuel cooler? There are three bits of advice I would give you. Buy a RAVE DVD , so you can start to understand your vehicle, NEVER listen to any one who advocates drilling the spigot on a new radiator, NEVER buy a non genuine , or at least non OEM, radiator. Bob

The genuine blanking plug are pretty pricey Plug - Land Rover Part PYB500040 so I went Silicone Hose End Caps 2 Pack Blanking Plug Bung Stainless Steel Braided Braid | eBay Removed the metal pipe that runs at the back of the block and the hose connecting to the closed off radiator spigot.Fitted the restrictor to the fuel cooler,admittedly seemed overkill as the spigot on the radiator is already restricted,connected the hose between fuel cooler and rad..Seems to work ok,no problems in the last year.
Yes you could block off the short hose with a bolt......looks better with a plug and one less hose clamp to leak.

This is apparently what the factory blanking plug looks like:



It looks like it might have a reinforcing layer of some kind, but still it's pretty damn expensive.

One thing it might be worth factoring in is the proximity of the exhaust. The 180°C rating on the silicon sounds like it should be ok, but I wonder how well they'll hold up in the long term.

cheers
Paul