Thread: TD5 taking a while to start

Turns out injectors orings and washers were done.

Booked to go back to the mechanic.

How long ago and did the mechanic know that the injectors have to go back in their respective holes as the computer knows which hole each injector (numbered) goes, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Tank

How long ago and did the mechanic know that the injectors have to go back in their respective holes as the computer knows which hole each injector (numbered) goes, Regards Frank.

About 3000kms ago.

I expect they would. One of Canberra's Land Rover specialists.

Quick update.

I got the d2 to the mechanic, spoke to him later in the afternoon. He was amazed I even got it started to get to his shop. He ended up pushing it into the workshop.

After hooking it up to the diagnostic equipment he found the injector pulse was weak. He put a spare 2nd hand ECU in and said it started first go and was fine all afternoon.

Then on the way over to pick it up I got a call saying it wasn't starting as easily again.

So it's still at the workshop for further diagnosis on Monday. :-(

I picked up the D2 this morning from the Mechanics.

The new ECU seems to have made gear changes much smoother than before, but I can really feel the difference in the performance of the engine compared to the old ECU. I still have it and plan to pull it apart to see if there's any oil in there that may have been causing any problems.

I also tried the cruise control on the way home, and it wouldn't 'set'. I CC switch was on. So I'm going to google ECU's now to see if there's a difference between them.

The interesting thing now is, that after a couple of days with the mechanic and him starting it over the course of the time he had it, I drove it home, stopped at the shops and when I went to start it, it was again slow to fire. Once it started this time, both the M and S lights started to flash.

I figured since the car would move and it wasn't far from home, I'd head off. I stopped at the servo to fill up and on getting in to drive home, starting was at its worst again. It simply wouldn't start.

Eventually it fired and I was able to drive home.

The M and S lights weren't showing though this time.

This is proving to a be a very expensive issue. Given all the diagnostics available at the workshop, does anyone have any theories on what could be causing the problem?

Just a thought, with the M&S lights flashing, and im assuming the XYZ switch, and the other "obvious" causes of the M&S lights flashing has been ruled out, get your mechanic to check the harness between the XYZ switch and the Auto Trans ECU. Mine was rubbed through at one point and when going over a bump would short out onto metal, and cause the M&S lights to come on and my 02 D2 TD5 to go into limp mode.

May not be your issue, but worth a look.

Cheers

Matt

To me it still seems like a voltage issue? M&S lights, sluggish starting , weak injector pulse. What do the others following this think? If there is earthing issues or faulty connection to the ECU it will have a bearing on it and those types of things are not easy to find
Cheers Scott

Originally Posted by schuy1

To me it still seems like a voltage issue? M&S lights, sluggish starting , weak injector pulse. What do the others following this think? If there is earthing issues or faulty connection to the ECU it will have a bearing on it and those types of things are not easy to find
Cheers Scott

Thanks Scott.

The problem with these hard to find problems is the bill gets very expensive.

The battery is new and I checked, 12.55volts. I think that's high enough.

The negative wire off the battery wasn't grounded to the chasis, I suspect this was my fault when I changed the battery. I have fixed this now.. just trying to work out what the continuity switch is on the multimeter to check it out.

I'll crawl under the car and see what I can see with the xyz switch and wiring.

I guess the thing is it does seem like it could pinned on something like a bare wire somewhere as he swore that the car started fine each and every time he had it (apart from late friday afternoon when he was going to move it out of the shop which is why it stayed the weekend), so it could be that with my driving it home today the wire may have moved and is now shorting out.

I'm really not sure how you test this though.. I barely know how to work a multimeter!