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Thread: Auxiliary Wiring Kit / Driving Lamp Kit circuits?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Willamstown Victoria
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    Auxiliary Wiring Kit / Driving Lamp Kit circuits?

    I want to install a pair of driving lights - and would like to copy the Land Rover designed installation if possible. This way I'd be sure the right circuits/fuses were used and could use the genuine lighted momentary binnacle switch. I'm quite capable of wiring a straightforward relay driven by a switched connection from the high-beam circuit, but that wouldn't use a momentary switch.

    The standard installation used the subject kits (the auxiliary wiring kit appears to just be the driving lamp kit less lights). The kits are no longer available.

    While I have the installation instructions for the kits (which are just series of pictures for dis-assembly-installation-assembly); what I can't find is circuit diagrams. None of the circuit diagram sources I've checked (including Rave) have diagrams for these accessories (unless I'm missing something obvious).

    Does anyone know of a source for these diagrams?

    If not, can anyone tell me how the momentary switch works? Is it connected to the ECU or BCU, or does it use some sort of relay latching circuit?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Inner West Sydney Australia
    Posts
    167
    Here you go, extensive light install plus LR light switch mod

    www.discovery2.co.uk** Driving / Spot Lamps

    Allround brilliant website as well

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Willamstown Victoria
    Posts
    13

    Thanks

    Thanks for your reply Mr Bear - but the article is for a Disco that already has the factory supplied aux lights loom already fitted. I'd looked at it & it uses parts of that loom - so unless its been fitted to mine (& I don't think it has) it doesn't tell me a lot.

    It will be useful for the advice about how to modify the standard switches to be used for a conventional relay system using genuine binnacle switches though.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne, AU
    Posts
    435
    I used a wiring loom to the driving lights that I made from heavy duty cable - or buy one. Then hooked to a latching binnacle switch - e.g. cruise control and simply swapped the covers of the switch to the one from the aux lights. All looks custom.
    _________________________
    Discovery 2 2002 Td5 ES Auto - SLS lift, chipped, CDL, de-EGR, Traxide USI160 DBS
    Discovery 4 2013 SDV6 HSE Auto - Llams, Traxide SC80LR DBS
    Nanocom Evolution with codes for both above vehicles.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brunswick, Victoria
    Posts
    3,763
    Quote Originally Posted by mfhall View Post
    I want to install a pair of driving lights - and would like to copy the Land Rover designed installation if possible. This way I'd be sure the right circuits/fuses were used and could use the genuine lighted momentary binnacle switch. I'm quite capable of wiring a straightforward relay driven by a switched connection from the high-beam circuit, but that wouldn't use a momentary switch.

    The standard installation used the subject kits (the auxiliary wiring kit appears to just be the driving lamp kit less lights). The kits are no longer available.

    While I have the installation instructions for the kits (which are just series of pictures for dis-assembly-installation-assembly); what I can't find is circuit diagrams. None of the circuit diagram sources I've checked (including Rave) have diagrams for these accessories (unless I'm missing something obvious).

    Does anyone know of a source for these diagrams?

    If not, can anyone tell me how the momentary switch works? Is it connected to the ECU or BCU, or does it use some sort of relay latching circuit?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
    The factory kit has a module that contains a circuit which latches on the momentary push from the driving light switch plus a relay to switch the driving lamps when high beam is switched. As UP's page shows, these circuits are potted in resin (as you can see on the page Mr. Bear linked to), so it's difficult to determine exactly how they are wired.

    There is a second hand module on ebay at the moment: Land Rover Discovery Series 2 1999 2004 Genuine Auxilary Light Module STC50039 | eBay

    There is a list of what most of the connections to the switching module on the same page. You could probably come up with a circuit that latched the momentary switch with a little bit of research. Maybe something like this:
    All About Circuits Forum - View Single Post - Best Momentary Latching Pushbutton Switch Circuit

    In the end it's probably easiest to switch the faceplates as suggested above.

    Your best bet would be to use something like the circuit used in this Traxide setup as the basis: COMBO HL & Driving Light Wiring Kit | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

    cheers
    Paul
    Hacking the Td5 ECU since 2012
    http://www.discotd5.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kilmore Vic
    Posts
    182
    some info here in an old thread which I found helpful. I'm currently getting the switch and relay to connect some front fog lights. this thread covers running driving lights off the front fog light switch.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...rt-number.html

    Cheers
    Bernie
    D2 TD5 Manual

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, UK
    Posts
    91
    I posted some info, here - Land Rover Zone - View Single Post - Disco 2 Safari 5000 Driving Lamps Wiring Diagram


    The first diagram shows where the Auxiliary Wiring Kit (using the 'control unit') is connected to the vehicle's wiring harness.


    The second diagram shows how to modify the wiring kit and simplify the circuit, using a standard automotive relay and a latching on/off switch.

    This does away with the expensive and unreliable 'control unit' in the kit, replacing it with a latching on/off switch (Puma Defender Heated Seat switch YUF500150LNF, which (in the UK) is 10 x cheaper than a DII Cruise Control switch).


    Instead of taking the main (high) beam feed from one of the headlamps, the easiest place to take it from is the main lighting switch at the steering column.


    I've re-posted the content of the Landy Zone post, below -


    You do have to change the switch body for a latching live-switching switch, but for this, you can use a Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch (YUF500150LNF), which is only a fiver

    The Driving Lights Switch's 'Aux 2' front can be easily swapped to the Puma switch body.


    If you want to change to a relay, you might find this useful -


    Wire Colour Codes

    B = Black . G = Green . O= Orange . R = Red . U = Blue . W = White . Y = Yellow



    BEFORE






    AFTER






    DETAILS

    We'll start at the 10-way connector at the 'Control Unit'


    Top row -




    Cut R1 - connect it to terminal 30 of your relay

    Cut B2 - connect it to terminal 85 of your relay

    Cut UY1 - we'll deal with this wire soon...

    Cut B1 and B3 - crimp them together in an M6 eyelet and take them to the earth point C0557/C0709/C0807 on the inner wing -





    The mounting bracket that the fuse holder clips to, can be removed from the 'Control Unit' body and mounted elsewhere.

    It's held on by a small countersunk screw.






    Bottom Row -

    (ignore the fact that I've already cut the White/Green and Blue/Orange wires)




    Cut R2 and UO - join them together (solder and sleeve, or splice joint)

    Cut U - connect it to terminal 86 of your relay

    Cut UY2 - connect it, with UY1 from the top row, to terminal 87 of your relay

    Cut WG - NOT NEEDED - remove it back to it's 'tap-off' under the engine compartment fusebox, in a 'reverse' of the installation procedure, below -




    Alternatively, you can just trace the White/Green wire WG from the 10-way connector, back to where it emerges from the underbonnet fuse box Brown 3-way connector C0572-1, cut it and tape-up the bare end.

    Make sure that you don't cut the other WG wire from the same terminal (C0572-1), which goes to the inline White/Translucent cylinderical connector, as this powers a large number of ignition-switched circuits from the under-dash fuse box.



    Changing the switch wiring to suit a PUMA Heated Seat Latching On/Off Switch (YUF500150LNF)

    At the Black switch connector -




    Open the hinged terminal lock and, using a safety pin from the front of the connector -

    Release the Blue wire from cavity 5 and the Black wire from cavity 4

    Swap their positions, so that the Blue wire is now in cavity 4 and the Black wire is now in Cavity 5

    Close hinged terminal lock

    Job done



    Here are some pictures that show how to open a 5-way switch connector and release the terminals.

    These are from my 'Fuel Flap Relocation Harness' Installation Instructions, so show a Blue connector, but the procedure is the same for all colours of these switch connectors -

    Use a small screwdriver to open the hinged terminal lock, 1st side -





    And on the 2nd side -





    Hinged terminal lock opened -





    Use a safety pin to lift the locking tab above the wire's terminal -





    At the same time as lifting the locking tab, pull gently on the wire





    Terminal released from connector housing -






    This animated cross-section of a connector and terminal, shows what you're trying to achieve with the safety pin -





    Paul.

    1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
    1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'



    .
    Last edited by PaulMc0308; 19th September 2013 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Added terminal removal animation

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, UK
    Posts
    91
    If you dont have an 'Auxiliary Wiring Kit' to modify, and want to wire driving/spot lamps from scratch, this is how I do them.


    Content re-posted from - The D2 Boys Club. • Login

    (you'll need to be a logged-in member to the D2BC forum, to see the post)


    This is my wiring Diagram for Driving Lamps, using a Defender Puma Heated Seat Switch (YUF500150LNF), which has been modified by replacing it's switch cap with one from a DII spotlights switch -

    YUF500150LNF is a latching, live-switching on/off switch. It costs around a fiver, and uses the Black 5-way switch connector.




    This complies with UK lighting regulations, in that, the Driving Lamps can only be switched-on with Main Beam and will extinguish when Main Beam is dipped.

    But, unlike the Genuine Parts Accessory Kit, these can be left switched in the 'on' position, so that if you 'flash' someone, the driving lamps will also flash, along with the main beam.



    Connectors referenced in the above diagram -


    C0759 & C0760 - Switch illumination and earth.

    Depending on your vehicle's specification, some higher spec. vehicles have no spare cavities in these headers, so an alternative connection will have to be found

    (adjacent switches, or the S12 socket on the under-facia fuse box)





    C0041-5 - Source of Main Beam trigger -





    C0585-3 and C0588-4 - Alternative source of Main Beam trigger -



    C0585-3 is the other end of the cable from C0041-5 - there's no real advantage in picking-up the trigger here.

    C0588-4 is an unused terminal (on UK/European spec.vehicles) on the main beam circuit (before it's split into left & right circuits), which is used as a connection to the Daytime Running Lights circuit on Canadian NAS vehicles.

    C0588-4 is quite fiddly to get at (I've got my Main Beam trigger connected here, but I did have the under-dash fuse box out of the car at the time).
    It requires a Sumitomo 090 female terminal to plug into the connector.



    End of under-bonnet fuse box - a good place to mount your relay (just to the right of where the 'C158' label is, on the side next to the ECU plug), as it's adjacent to the Battery Live and good Earth points, and not too far to route the Driving Lamps cables to, as well as being tucked out of the way.




    For your relay, I would recommend a relay with a combined fuse to protect the driving lamp supply, like this one -





    Battery Live connections at the under-bonnet fuse box -





    Earth points, adjacent to the under-bonnet fuse box -






    Paul.

    1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
    1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'



    .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Brunswick, Victoria
    Posts
    3,763
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulMc0308 View Post
    But, unlike the Genuine Parts Accessory Kit, these can be left switched in the 'on' position, so that if you 'flash' someone, the driving lamps will also flash, along with the main beam.
    Damn it!!! My Genuine Parts Aux wiring kit must be broken!

    When I flash the headlights with the aux lights in the on position this happens:

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmPDYqu5oy4"]YouTube[/ame]



    Otherwise it's a pretty interesting tutorial, and the switch hook up is very clever.

    I still prefer the Traxide style setup for the relay which takes the high beam trigger from a short harness between the back of the headlight and the loom connector. The install of this type I've seen mount the NewEra style fused relays in behind the drivers side headlight, so the wiring runs can be short, and use heavy gauge wiring to minimise voltage drop at the lights.

    cheers
    Paul

    Add: Feral had posted up a link to this pic a few years ago showing a typical relay location. There are other ones posted to the forum but you think I can find them?

    Hacking the Td5 ECU since 2012
    http://www.discotd5.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, UK
    Posts
    91
    I can't see the video, YouTube tells me that it's 'private'

    But, I'm guessing that your driving lights 'flash' with your main beams.

    Do you have a latching switch?

    If not, you may find that the contacts on the tiny undersized relay in the control unit have fused together.


    The Land Rover Genuine Parts pre-facelift wiring kit (STC50039) takes the main beam trigger from the driver's side headlamp.

    It does this with a short loom terminated with a male and female H4 connector at each end, which is plugged-in inline with the driver's side headlamp wiring.

    In the later Genuine Parts kit for the facelift vehicles (STC53196AA), because of the different (9-way sealed) headlamp connector, the main beam trigger is taken from the main lighting switch C0041-5, by unplugging the Blue/White wire from the switch's connector and plugging-it into an adaptor that has two branches - one going to the spotlamps switch, the other going back into C0041-5.

    If you're using a switch to interupt the main beam trigger, this is the neatest way to do it, as you aren't running wires backwards and forwards from and into the the engine compartment.


    Paul.

    1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
    1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'



    .

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