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Lock up is when the two halves of the TC are locked together so there is no torque multiplication but also no losses. Footbrake stall is the maximum RPM that can be put into a TC without achieving forward movement, holding the vehicle with the footbrake. Static stall is same but can only be achieved with the use of a transbrake.
So I know the standard Torque converter has a stall of 2800rpm. The heavy duty low stall units are 2200rpm. Is that Static Stall or Foot Brake Stall?Quote:
Originally Posted by clubagreenie
I'm guessing lockup is what the Disco does at 80km/h on the speedo.
Happy Days.
Mine is installed and working within 1kmh of the gps. now I understand what you guys are experiencing. Kind of annoying. I drop about 250rpm once I hit 80kmh makes it interesting in 80kmh speed zones staying at the limit. I guess it's another "feature" of having a modified car I'll have to get used to :p
Quote:
Originally Posted by disco_ute
It's a standard feature of the D2. God and a very few others will know why the LR gurus decided to make it 80km/h and not 78km/h. Most speed limits around the world are at the 10km/h interval.
Happy Days.
Agreed! Might throw the speedo out by a few more kmh if it starts to annoy me moreQuote:
Originally Posted by joel0407
My thought is to have the speedo reading high. IE, reading 81km/h when the GPS says I'm actually doing 80km/h. That way it should be good for lockup and I'm not speeding.Quote:
Originally Posted by disco_ute
Happy Days.
Lockup is electronic so could be manipulated by some sort of signal modification box, done a bit cheaper than the Wholesale manual switch unit just by using the input signal at say 75km/h to switch on an output of the 80km/h signal.
Does anyone know the source and type of signal? Assuming it comes from the ABS wheel speed sensors to the SLABS ECU then it sends out another signal at 80 to the Auto ECU.
So the Speed input is a pulsed signal. If we know the type/rate using something to sense this at 75 and outputting the correct signal (or bypassing the SLABS internal signal to switch it on sooner) from an external box and splicing it into the line to activate the lockup, using a diode to stop the signal feeding back into the SLABS and scarring it and turning the lockup on sooner. Or even do it via a linear or stepped pot to allow variable lockup points.
FWIW judicious manipulation of the R foot with a pulse of the accelerator to make the auto think about kicking down but not doing it seems to make it think you're travelling faster and you can see it lockup and drop revs as low as 70.
What does it do if you put it in "sport" mode? The road I drive into town is gravel, quite hilly with lots of blind slow corners. Leaving it in "D" gives me the willies with it up and down so I just often lock it in "3" or sport. Must say I do not notice a great difference in fuel.
I do have the Ashcroft HD TC.
Cheers Scott
Looks like the prices have come down a lot!
Just under 2K to my door!
Compushift II and Shrifter® Custom Tuned Bundle compushift II and paddle shifter bundle [10040CSII] - $1,495.00 : Twist Machine, Paddle Shifters, Billet Accessories, Hot Rod Supply
Would be great off road!
Would be a bitch to adapt to a D2 steering wheel. Luck i have a momo :P