Thread: want to see why the TD5 handbrake rattles?

Hi Philip A,
I modified the left hand brake shoe as per the Tech Bulletin and fitted the Red springs and I'm still left with residual rattle at 2100. When I feel like lying on my back again I will remove the back plate and repair the wear points, flip the shoes as you have and I'm optimistic that will finally get rid of the rattle. Has it worked for you?
Nick

Just to elaborate, this was one of the worst jobs I have done on teh D2, even worse than the FPR.

The main sorce of frustration was getting the springs back in place. It took me over half an hour to finally figure out how to get the handbrake cable end back in.
For the shoe holding springs , I ended up cinching the springs down with zip ties and even then it was touch and go, as I guess that I have the shoe platforms maybe a bit higher than normal. The tension springs at the top and bottom of the shoes were the easiest by far.
The wave washers and circlip on the handbrake lever also were a challenge.
I bought a full set of springs aftermarket for $10.
Gary at CLR supplied a new bolt for the adjuster unasked , but unfortunately the loctite was in the wrong place near the end and it emerged from the adjuster, so after a test drive I had to CAREFULLY undo the adjuster so it didn't fall out and squirt some low strength loctite on it, as the adjustment changed on the test drive. I don't know whether it was an undoing of the bolt or just something settling as I wasn't about to pull the whole lot apart again..


To answer Pippin's question, yes it is much quieter. The car still has the gravelly vibe at 2200RPM, but the chorus doesn't join the orchestra.
Regards Philip A

I modified the left hand brake shoe as per the Tech Bulletin and fitted the Red
springs and I'm still left with residual rattle at 2100

I finally had a look at the tech bulletin and frankly I can't see it as a long term cure.
The stronger springs will only take up the wear better than the standard springs but really not add more tension if the wear is bad enough. I recall I could just twist the cap off the pin on mine with no pushing down, however after I rebuilt the pads on the backing plate and added new shoes , I had to ziptie the ( new) springs to compress them to be able to replace the pins, and then it was difficult.

IMHO the wear will eventually equalise the tensions on each of the three pads. I noticed that the middle pad was far more worn than the end ones.

I just think we will have to do this job periodically, although I still think some more inert material eg brass shim material on the pads or brake shoes may damp the vibration a bit. Or maybe some hard material eg stainless as an insert to reduce the clearance caused by wear.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I bit the bullet and pulled off thedrum today to fit new shoes as my shoes were soaked in oil.
I also fitted a new seal although there was no evidence it was leaking.

So the reason that teh shoes vibrate is that the backing plate and shoes wear so much that the springs lose their tension. I estimate they wear at least 1/8 inch or maybe 1.5 MM or more.
The fix is to either flip the shoes if they are not oil soaked , but the best I guess is new shoes and backing plate. Because I am poor I welded the backing plate and ground the welds back.
Given the state of the shoes and the backing plate , IMHO the LR fix of stronger springs is just a bandaid.
car handbrake and parrots 007.JPG

car handbrake and parrots 008.JPG

car handbrake and parrots 009.JPG
Regards Philip A

I'll be giving this one a go - I've heard about welding the backing plate but just wondering about the longevity of the fix? How has it gone so far? Has welding the plate affected the hardness of the metal?
Cheers.

Well done, Philip, that is exactly what I did. I now have a hand brake that works wonders, is tight and doesn't rattle.

I'll be giving this one a go - I've heard about welding the backing plate but just wondering about the longevity of the fix? How has it gone so far? Has welding the plate affected the hardness of the metal?

So far so good I have done about 25Kk and the noise is not back.
However I was talking to Tuggurah specialist British parts and they said they braze the seats as brazing is harder than weld.
Time will tell, but maybe next time I will try brazing.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

So far so good I have done about 25Kk and the noise is not back.
However I was talking to Tuggurah specialist British parts and they said they braze the seats as brazing is harder than weld.
Time will tell, but maybe next time I will try brazing.
Regards Philip A

In my case, I was going to use the mig but decided to use Hard Facing electrodes.


I too have done around 20k and all is good.

Thinking back on my job, I recall there was an approximately 8mm hole on top of the backing plate at the 'lip' section. I drilled directly opposite on the bottom so as to easily allow dust/water/oil to drain out. Doubt it will really prove anything but thought there was no harm in doing so. (...and yes I know the drum is not sealed against the backing plate but thought having another 'drain' will only ease the removal of such contamination)