I assume your condenser fan is working? That was my issue with warm aircon.
Cheers
Mike
Had an A/C service last week due to gradually declining performance. No problems found and a regas was done. Air temp at exit grills is 8-9 degrees C and tech says there is no adjustment - that's just as good as it gets.
Are we missing something?
TIA
Steve
02 D2 V8
I assume your condenser fan is working? That was my issue with warm aircon.
Cheers
Mike
Once you get all the fans working (check for filters in the system too) you'll find there's a thermostat on the evaporator.
Now it's possible to hack into these and switch them in/out of running colder. I did this to my work car by splicing resistors in parallel on a rotary switch. I now have four settings.
1. Factory useless (about 10C at the vents)
2. About 7C at the vents.
3. About 4C at the vents.
4. Sub-zero, can pull about -2C at the vents.
It's fantastic. Get in a hot car and crank it to cold. As it gets unbearable (and before it ices up) switch it up a notch at a time until you're comfortable.
Rewind back to the mid 80's and rangerover factory air-con had an adjustable thermostat. But creep forward to 93 and it's gone. One setting.
The heater matrix blend damper may not be sealing well allowing heated air to contaminate the cooled air?
Try the fix on the link attached.
Regards
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1831097
Remove the engine cover and check the earth wire for the compressor. Mine was rubbing on the corner of the head and broke. Had exactly the same symptoms as you.
Easy to figure out if you can use a multimeter.
Thanks for the useful replies. I have worked through the options and can confirm an engaged compressor, working condenser fan and no faults displayed using the self-diagnostic utility on the LCD display. Also, I checked the flap push rod and the sensor fan on driver's side.
Now I have 10 degrees at the vent in 28 degree external temperature with A/C set to LO, LO recirculation and full fan. Compressor is on and outlet pipe is cold and gas is full.
Tempted to bypass the heater hoses with a blind loop in the engine bay and see what happens.
Dougal, I am intrigued by the bypass resistor trick. I assume from my reading that you would put a resistor in parallel with the evaporator thermistor to make it appear hotter to the BCU (?)
Where do I find the connector?
Cheers and thanks again to all.
Steve
x 2
Dougal, I am intrigued by the bypass resistor trick. I assume from my reading that you would put a resistor in parallel with the evaporator thermistor to make it appear hotter to the BCU (?)
Where do I find the connector?
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
I'm not sure where you'll find it on the D2, the Nissan car I've done it to was simply two wires exiting the heater case near the evaporator. On that car it was quite obvious as no extra wires for flaps etc.
I'll be doing the same for my 93 rangie at some point. But it's way down the list.
Here is the write-up I did on Outerlimits: Outer Limits 4x4 Board • View topic - How to improve factory AC?
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