I have seen hoses without a clamp last for ages. Quite bizzar. Hope you haven't done any damage. Do you have a low coolant alarm? Did it go off?
Sent from my Motorola RAZR XT925
I changed Daisy's radiator about 10 days ago and all seemed good until yesterday. Without warning the radiator top hose became detached (the clue was the billowing cloud of steam and the temperature needle leaping up). Luckily we stopped straight away and the needle didn't get into the red.
I reattached the hose, let the car cool and refilled the coolant system. The car seems fine and I think we have got away with it. However the surface of the coolant hose between the bleed screw and the cylinder head has gone shiny and seems soft to the touch.
Here's my questions:
1. If I did connect the top hose and clamp correctly when I changed the radiator, how could it have blown off?
2. If I didn't connect it properly, how did it stay connected for so long?
3. Is the change of appearance of the top pipe significant? Has it devulcanised? Do I need to change it?
Regards
Last edited by Daisy Driver; 8th January 2014 at 05:37 PM. Reason: spelling error
I have seen hoses without a clamp last for ages. Quite bizzar. Hope you haven't done any damage. Do you have a low coolant alarm? Did it go off?
Sent from my Motorola RAZR XT925
Have to ask, was any coolant expelled from the expansion tank? It could be possible you didn't tighten the clamp enough, easy to do if you are distracted. I always tighten the tridon clamps I use with a socket ratchet & 8mm socket , because of arthritis in my wrists, a screwdriver doesn't cut it. Go the simple stuff first, tighten a new clamp again, then go from there. Bob
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
If you were using worm drive clamps they should be retensioned after 24-48 hours. The rubber hose relaxes from under the clamp. That's why spring clamps are favoured by manufacturers, they stay tight enough after new installation to last the life of the hose.
Bob10 - nothing came out of the expansion tank, the splash pattern suggests that it all came out of the top hose connection when it disconnected. No sign of anything spraying out from the lower pipe connections either.
Bob and Bee Utey - I re-used the original spring clamps - was this a mistake?
Old spring clamps are generally OK if they haven't been abused by poor tools, the hose is exactly the same thickness as OEM and they are fitted right next to the raised section of the fitting and both the hose and fitting are clean and dry. Many are replaced because you can't be absolutely sure that they are 100% perfect. I'd use worm drive clamps and retension as mentioned so long as they aren't hidden down under the thermostat or something.
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