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Normally I would but having read up on the difficulty of changing the actual ball joints... even with the right tools... I have decided to change the boots to get it past Rego and then I will try to source or make some special tools to allow me to press them out and back in again...Quote:
Originally Posted by SiddersC
I made up new boots from in one case a tube and green garden wire and the other side one of the yank boots split with a cutter and green wire.
I grease them every 5k with a needle and so far no clunks even on the GRR.
I also made shields with inner tube and stuck them onto the lower arm with adhesive to stop direct hits with water etc. I don't expect them to last forever but should get me home.
Regards Philip A
It'd be great if they did work. I've got this job coming up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andych
If not, I'll have to order them from the us.
Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
MR in Redcliffe sell top and bottom ball joint rubbers :)
I had a chance to climb underneath this afternoon and the good news is that I ONLY have to do one side... the other side is pristine.
The drivers side lower boot is split but I couldnt get any movement from the ball joint so I am hoping it will be fine.
I couldnt measure accurately but the boots I have from Repco look mighty close..
More info hopefully tomorrow...
I fairly sure I bought mine mail order from 4x4 in Melbourne once and another time from the landrover dealer. They have a part number.The were cheap at the time. No need to buy generic, you can buy something made for the job. From memory even a new ball joint wasn't expensive. A couple of mine are cracked from old age again they need doing.
It isnt the cost of the ball joints that is the hard part... I think they are around $50 each.. the special tools needed are the killer.Quote:
Originally Posted by simmo
Ideally a small hydraulic ram like this RAM Hydraulic Bearing Gear Pulley Puller Extractor Seperator Remover KIT Tool | eBay and some plates, threaded rod and some pipes modified to fit should do the job... the Land Rover tool uses this type of ram... not sure if 10 tons of force is enough though based on some of the tutorials in here...
As for the boots.. their doesn't seem to be a definitive answer on where to buy correct ones, their part numbers or dimensions... hence this thread and a few other similar ones in other categories...
All done... about 2 hours all up as I took my time but everything came apart easy... the bottom ball joint was the most stubborn to release from the taper but it only took a few decent hits with my large ball peen hammer.
The old boot dimensions as best as I could measure are
Large diameter - 45mm
Small diameter - 22mm
The Repco universal boot fitted pretty well size wise.. the large end shoudl really be trimmed slightly to allow the metal elastic retaining ring to seat better but... it isnt going anywhere so I didnt worry...
I filled everything up with grease.. the ball joint was nice and firm... no movement at all.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/P1020377.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/P1020378.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/P1020379.jpg
Big hammer and some wedges & spacers etc, works for me.:) But I've seen a ball joint "breaker" handtool at the tools shop, not so expensive. :)
I have one of these:Quote:
Originally Posted by simmo
http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/ak381.jpg
Very handy tool that saves an endless amount of hassle. Simply preload it, shock the joint and it pops apart.
No damage to the boots either.