Reply With Quotehave you checked to make sure the old o ring isn't still in there. Also check the pipe end of the new lines to make sure that they aren't a couple of Mil longer than should be as you won't get the depth.
Master
SupporterI'm just in the middle of replacing my recently repaired cooler lines that failed. I bought a new set of lines and in the process of screwing the bottom pipe into the auto it would appear that the aluminium has been stripped out of the aluminium thread in the auto. I'm trying to remember if any threads are exposed (i.e. the fitting does not entirely screw in) when the o ring is seated, or should it go in the whole way. I fitted this pipe a month or two ago and there was no issue and I did not go overboard with tensioning. This time I ensured the threads were aligned (as far as I know) and everything seemed to fine until I met tension which I thought was the seating. A couple of threads or so are stil exposed. It gives way if I apply any further tension. I'm wondering if some sort of liquid metal thread lock will suffice? It does not require a huge amount of tension.
AT RESThave you checked to make sure the old o ring isn't still in there. Also check the pipe end of the new lines to make sure that they aren't a couple of Mil longer than should be as you won't get the depth.
Master
SupporterChecked for the old O-ring. Sadly I can't find it anywhere which has me somewhat worried. I'll compare lengths tomorrow. Might end up doing a very careful job with some Permatex thread fixer.Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
Fossicker
Interesting. I'm replacing one of my pipes tomorrow so will be careful of thsi.
Master
SupporterAnyone else ever spent 5 hours trying to get the top fitting to catch a thread and start. The new fitting looks identical to the old but I'm having no luck getting it to go.
Master
SupporterI suggest cutting the old pipe short and try it in the hole by hand. If it fits ok there may be something wrong with the new pipe. Is it a genuine pipe or other ?
There are some thread restorer putties that could restore the thread but they will be expensive if you have to resort to them.
Good luck !
Master
SupporterIt's not LR branded but it has Conti hoses and the fittings are IDENTICAL. Now for the worst piece of news. The upper hard to get hole is now seeming to have worn threads. I've not gone overboard with any thing in the way of tension. The old fitting don't fit either now. I've taken these hoses off before and refitted with no such problem. It seems that aluminium is freely coming off of the auto house. I'm thinking of chasing the top one through with a tap and then seeing how it goes. Epoxy thread repair will be the next step. I don't feel like putting it on a car trailer to get someone else to do it, but I might have to. Any idea if tapping the top hole will be easy enough with pulling the f$%$^& auto out? Worst thing so far I've had to do on this car. Fuel pressure regs, hubs etc are nothing on this.
Master
SupporterI had a thought that you may have to rethread the housing, there are a range of recoil kits and if you put grease on the tap you may be able to catch all the swarf as you retap the thread. provided you can work out which thread it is.
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