Thread: 2000 Discovery 2 TD5 - Wont start after head gasket replacement :(

i'll get there. i have dave from dave dover land rovers coming in the morning to have a look. I suspect fuel pump - i opened the access panel and it wasnt seated correctly - someone has clearly been messing around with it before.

Well i will give you the update - dave did not show up today, he did not answer my calls, sms, or voicemail message. I know he is quite popular and highly regarded around here but unfortunately i have found him to be most unprofessional. It took me 3 days to get a hold of him the first time, I actually assumed he wasnt interested in my job, and i left him a message saying 'mate , if you dont want to do it, thats fair enough, but just let me know so i can move on'. This is when he called me back to book it in for today.

So i spent my morning sitting around waiting for him, before giving up.

Does anyone else know a mobile guy ? Failing this im thinking of just buying a fuel pump anyway.

Can anyone confirm that i may be missing something for my existing on to not screw on ?? And any reccomendations for a pump? Are the cheapies on ebay ok?

Get the pump tested first M12x1.5 thread in the temp sender
hole in FPR

Best pumps are genuine made by VDO.
Similar units can be bought but can scream of not function long.

Have you pulled pump to see if its filters are clean.

If mine I'd only buy new gen pump after I was 100% sure
the old one was clean and I had pressure tested e eg here
in UK they are £260

well my new fuel pump and fuel filter arrived this morning from the uk . I installed them without any problems.

Unfortunately the news is not good. Whilst the new pump has made a slight difference it still doesnt run. I have managed to get it to start a few times , it idles only (accelerator pedal does nothing) and pumps out white smoke. I did let it idle until the engine warmed up but its made no difference.

The times i have managed to start it, it seems to help to hold the accelerator to the floor for about 5 seconds and then release it...

I would love to know what the problem is but unfortunately i am quickly losing interest and motivation and i think its highly likely i'll be cutting my losses and selling it soon!

I wonder if this is an ecu problem. If you have good fuel and sensors the only thing that could do what you describe is the ecu. When I had mine tuned it did exactly what yours is doing. Idled rough, blew smoke and the accelerator pedal had no effect. Is there a chance the previous owner had put a new or modified ecu in? When you press the accelerator pedal does that register on the diagnostic tool?

Try testing the throttle position sensor.
The voltages can be measured at the ECM the Black plug C0658
Using just a multimeter.

ACCEL. WAY 1(V) - about 0.3V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
C0658-12- white/green - throttle pedal sensor 1 0-5v input
This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 1 as read by the TD5 ECU.
The voltage reading increases as the throttle pedal is depressed.
A fault will be recorded if the sum of the voltages of throttle 1 and throttle 2 do not add up to the throttle supply voltage + or - 10%

ACCEL. WAY 2(V) - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V
C0658-36-white/silver-throttle pedal sensor2 analogue 5-0v input (C787-K)

Your car would not have had this pedal type fitted as new but could have been retro fitted.
ACCEL. WAY 3(V) – this track must have values very near to the second track.
C0658-20- red/green - throttle pedal sensor 3 analog 0-5v in(787- C)
(only for EU3 engines)
This shows the output voltage from driver throttle pedal potentiometer 3 as read by the TD5 ECU.
The 3 Track Throttle Potentiometer configuration is not used on all vehicles and was introduced at VIN Number YA288371 on a Discovery and 1A605426 on a Defender. The selection may be configured in the settings section.

ACCEL. SUPPLY(V) – this value must stay between 4.9 a 5.1
C0658-14-white/purple -throttle pedal supply (C0787- - 5v input
As above - white/purple - pedal connector (C0787-J) - supply 5v input
This shows the regulated supply voltage for the driver throttle pedal potentiometers.
The sum of the voltages from driver throttle pots 1 and 2 at any throttle position must add up to within 10% of this voltage or a fault will be recorded.

This should test the pedals outputs to ECM.

If this tests ok the next thing you will have to do is get the car hooked up to nanocom or other test system that can give you live data.

If you have a faulty ECM you will need to use a nanocom or other tester and a known good ECM.
You will have to remove cam cover write down the injector
codes for each cylinder.
(IMPORTANT If you are using a ECM from another car you will also have to record its injector codes so it can be recoded after testing.)
Fit the known good ECU hook up nanocom and code the ECM to suit your injectors.

Also note you must use the correct ECM for your car
here's a list of what will work or not work.
It MUST be an auto ECM
NNNs are remapable through OBD port the MSBs are not you need to fit a chip.

AUTO

MSB101192 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

MSB101193 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

MSB101340 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

Remapable
NNN000130_USE 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

NNN500030 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

LR006301 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, EXCHANGE PART (RE-MANUFACTURED) AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(+)"EUROPE/J"'

MSB101260 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"J"' OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"EUROPE"')

MSB101261 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"J"' OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"EUROPE"')

MSB101350 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"J"' OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"EUROPE"')

MSB000130 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"J"' OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"EUROPE"')

MSB500030 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"J"' OR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, '(-)"EUROPE"')



MANUAL these will not be of any use.
MSB101183 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

MSB101184 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

MSB101330 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

NNN000120 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

NNN500020 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, COOLED EGR, CHECK FOR SERVICE EXCHANGE VERSION, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

LR006328 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, EXCHANGE PART (RE-MANUFACTURED), COOLED EGR, MANUAL TRANSMISSION
NNN500250 1 ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE, NON COOLED EGR, MANUAL TRANSMISSION

I can understand that you are disheartened with the car trying to diagnose a running car is difficult enough let alone one that has been mucked about with then abandoned.

i believe ian tested the throttle with his nancom, i also tested it with my obd2 code reader and it appears to be working. We also tried a different known working ecu and it made no difference,

I have taken a video of the engine whilst its running. Im not so familiar with these engines and im a bit concerned that the engine is making a knocking sound which it shouldnt be! Can you guys watch the video in the link and tell me what you think?

IMG_1384_zps36b9643b.mp4 Video by ryan19804 | Photobucket