Thread: preventative maintenance @ 150K

That's about it, and you will be fine. I'd just pull out the current fuel pump and clean the filter per my short tut on pumps. I believe this will help here and do you no harm for a a change over as is relatively easy. Just check your bearing on the idler pulley (I just changed mine with bearing only from CBC) easy to punch out and back in to save a few dollars rather than full assembly. Cooling system? radiator should be okay but make sure as one can.

Just inspect uni's and coupling as these are age and use dependant but at 150 you would be okay to 200 if checked first.

Ignition barrel, after one Son put the wrong key in, I just removed all but one keypin thingies (I know it works great) in the ignition now. Yes you need to retain one as for no pins at all the key can come out during flight and is my cheap and reliable way out of carrying a spare ignition pack.

Cheers Geoff

Maybe check/replace Harmonic Balancer? should be OK most likely,but nice to be sure.Same with viscous fan hub bearing.Any sign of play, renew.

Trev.

Mines at about 137k and over the last 10k I've done much the same list (haven't done position sensor or starter brushes - will add to the list).
I've added:
- water pump
- all coolant hoses (when doing this I figured the general cleanliness indicated an unclogged radiator). I thought they were still I pretty good condition but had everything apart. Don't forget the 'secret' hose behind the turbo if changing hoses
- thermostat
- viscous fan and hub
- fuel hoses from pump going to filter: replaced with more flexible hoses and routed away from chassis
- mud shields on brakes - they tend to fail at the tabs and rattle
- engine saver
- rear drive Flex joint/uni thing
- front drive shaft (went with Tom woods)
- new exhaust studs, de-web exhaust manifold and slightly enlarge holes in manifold
- gearbox mounts (if not already done with main engine mounts)
- serpentine belt idler and belt
- ACE high pressure hose
- ACE filter
- replaced diff filler plugs with brass versions
- Power steering hoses
- cable tie all coolant hoses that rub with pieces of old hose between to prevent chafing
- flush brake system with new, different colour fluid
- new discs and rotors from Rapid RS - cool slotting and the pads make nearly zero black dust. Definitely better braking performance
- new airbags for rear suspension (paddocks have Dunlop for a great price); have a spare too.
- change out the SLS compressor inlet filter (mounts behind the left rear tail light, connects behind bumper) - I figure that, with good condition airbags should keep the compressor working for a long time.
- apparently there's a wire or something that runs above the gearbox and it chafes through and causes heartache - my mech did something to protect/reroute it when they the transfer box.

I did have the turbo fail so that's shiny new + a complete rebuild of the transfer case but they're probably not common. That was some wallet emptying 'fun' only a few weeks apart.

It's a big list but I'd rather do it early at home than have something bite me while out and about. Hoping this leaves me with nothing but routine maint for a long time!

I've fitted the King Springs too, are yours 235lbs and std height? They're excellent in the rough and when loaded but are quite lively when unloaded. I've gone with Koni RAID shocks instead of the billies.

Cheers, bidds

Front drive shaft - with the ungreasable double-cardin joint

Check all hoses - even the little ones connecting to the turbo boost mod..
Check wiring harness that runs in front of the head.
Replace the hard plastic hoses coming from the top left of the radiator to the expansion chamber.
Check fuel line hoses that cross over the tank on the rear. They rub and leak. There was a recall but many cars didn't have theirs done, and if they did, they leaked again.