Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Stripping Down Discovery 2 - Safety Advice

  1. #1
    Blenheimsilver Guest

    Stripping Down Discovery 2 - Safety Advice

    I recently purchased a cheap D2 to strip down for parts and just after some safety advice before attacking the beast with the rattle gun.

    Having searched the various blogs & photos on this site there is plenty of information on the best ways of undertaking this task, however before starting I need some assistance with the best and safest locations to place stands and blocks.

    I have very inquisitive young boys, so safety is something I take rather serious to ensure I've fully stabilised the chassis and suspension so it won't move etc.

    Essentially I intend to place 3 ton stands in 4 locations directly under the chassis rails, 2 at the front near the cross rail, plus 2 at the rear near the fuel tank.

    I also intend to place 1.2 ton stands, 2 under the front and 2 under rear axles to relieve the suspension.

    Anyway, was seeking advice if this is this enough support (or not enough), and if the placement of stands is ok?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Posts
    2,472
    Total Downloaded
    0
    First up welcome to the forum. Don't forget to post an intro in the introductions section.

    I would also be concerned with leaving up on stands with kids running around would be wanting to make sure it does not move. Flat metal on metal is easy to slide and if outdoors stormy weather could push the car around. I would look for stands that have a u shape support that the chassis rails can sit it. Or add something with a bit of friction (that won't collapse). In other words make sure it is rigid in all 3 dimensions.

    The other thing to think about would be to strip the axles/wheels last and just leave it sitting on its own suspension. Make up some base plates to park the wheels on with some structural wooden beams bolted together to get some extra clearance.

    Great to hear you thinking about safety - the number of times I have seen people leave a car up on bricks and pavers amazes me. Getting decent stands and thinking about to set up will make it so much easier to work on.


    David
    '02 Td5 Disco

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    start by propping the axles to the chassis with wood under the bump stops.

    strip from the top down, basically the reverse of how it was built, that way its always on its wheels and cant fall off till your down to basically the chassis and axles and then you can see plenty of places to stand it on and its got a lot less weight to it.

    it also has the advantage of you can move the thing around with prybars and winches.

    Unless someone desperately wants an axle or suspension bit first thats how I do it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
    Blenheimsilver Guest
    Thanks for your assistance it was greatly appreciated.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The other aspect is - remove airbags according to the instructions as they can hurt/kill in a big way if they go off.

    Likewise, and not sure if in a D2, there could is a propellant to pull the seattbelts back in case of an accident - my Freelander certainly did and again these can go bang if not treated with respect.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cambewarra, NSW
    Posts
    517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Briefly the way I dismantle a D2 is:
    Remove the Lights and bumpers.
    Strip out the interior.
    Remove the doors, front guards and quarter panels.
    Cut the rear body section off about the middle of the rear doors then roll it off backwards.
    Remove Radiator,oil coolers as well as the accessories and wiring on the inner front guards.
    Cut off the inner guards and radiator support panel.
    Roll the remaining section of the body off to the side.
    You are now left with the chassis and drive train and access to everything is much easier.
    Leave the wheels on.
    Once you are down to the chassis, axle housings and suspension support the chassis , unbolt the suspension/steering and roll the front and back axle housing assemblies out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Williams West Aust
    Posts
    20,998
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gazk View Post
    Briefly the way I dismantle a D2 is:
    Remove the Lights and bumpers.
    Strip out the interior.
    Remove the doors, front guards and quarter panels.
    Cut the rear body section off about the middle of the rear doors then roll it off backwards.
    Remove Radiator,oil coolers as well as the accessories and wiring on the inner front guards.
    Cut off the inner guards and radiator support panel.
    Roll the remaining section of the body off to the side.
    You are now left with the chassis and drive train and access to everything is much easier.
    Leave the wheels on.
    Once you are down to the chassis, axle housings and suspension support the chassis , unbolt the suspension/steering and roll the front and back axle housing assemblies out.
    Are the rear 1/4 panels worth saving??? Should only be glued/bolted in place.
    I only ask as I may be ripping my D2 apart if I cant give it away
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  8. #8
    Blenheimsilver Guest
    Hi Andrew,

    The rear quarter panels are very good and still on the vehicle. In fact the whole vehicle (body wize) was very good. The guy I purchased it from didn't want to spend the money to have the complete Wabco ABS assembly replaced, plus rego was due (which is over $1000 in NSW), so I picked it up very cheap.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cambewarra, NSW
    Posts
    517
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Are the rear 1/4 panels worth saving??? Should only be glued/bolted in place.
    I only ask as I may be ripping my D2 apart if I cant give it away
    Andrew
    They are bolted and glued on - not easy to remove due to the "glue" but once you have done a few it gets easier. There is some demand for them - I've sold a few, worth keeping if you have the storage space.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Two Rocks, W.A.
    Posts
    1,460
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Are the rear 1/4 panels worth saving??? Should only be glued/bolted in place.
    I only ask as I may be ripping my D2 apart if I cant give it away
    Andrew
    Apologies for the hijack, but Andy, I can't believe you've had no takers for Betty
    I'd take her in a flash, just not sure what my resources will be yet...
    Mike
    '00 D2 Td5 'Alice'
    '03 V6 Freelander 'Phoebe'
    '04 Td4 Freelander 'Harry'

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!