Thread: Disco 2 turning circle

Setting up steering
I would disconnect the damper first and see if it is the problem if not
here's what I do to set up the steering please note the coupler
can be damaged if not locked in its mid point and removed it
has limited travel.
The steering set up procedure is done after the tracking is known to be good.
(Toe out - Front – 0° 10' ± 10' (total))

Best to start with the basic set up for cars with steering box.
Here's a pic of the basic set up.



Best done with the coupler off (disconnect battery for a ten minutes or so before working on the air bag.)
Set in the straight ahead position on road wheels and steering wheel remove coupler and tape it so it cannot loose position.(tape is silver strip top RH of photo also note the small pin close to the centre hole this is pressed down by the steering wheel when its fitted when not pressed it locks the coupler.)



First centralise the travel of the steering box.
Should have approx 4full turns on a disco.
We want to count the turns from full lock to full lock on the box this is measured from the point where the steering stop bolts make contact on each side note the number of turns and divide by two.
Go to full lock on one side then rotate the steering wheel till you get to the mid point.
If necessary slacken steering wheel and set it to the straight ahead position.
The drop arm should be in its central position,this can be checked by going underneath and looking up to the rear of the drop arm it has a small slot in mid position you should be able to insert a M8 x1.25 pitch 80mm bolt through the groove and into the thread above.





If the bolt cannot be fitted the drop arm may not have been fitted to the steering box on the correct spline.

If necessary,
Split the drag link undo the 18mm nut, shock the drop arm with a hammer (it'll seperate after a few whacks), then pull the rod down out of the way.
The drop arm nut has a tab washer on it - use an old screwdriver or chisel to bend the washer back, slacken off the drop arm nut 40mm and rotate the arm to get the arm in spline nearest the mid point of the travel of the box.
(if not in middle of steering box travel you could be on full lock of the steering box but not enough to fully turn the hubs this will limit turning circle.)
Refit 40mm nut,
Reconnect the drag link and remove the centralising bolt.

Take the car for a short test drive to get the car to self center (road wheels parallel ) take a note of the position of steering wheel if it not in the correct position.
when you return have the steering wheel at the straight ahead position for the road wheels.
You will need to slacken the steering arm clamps then disconnect the drag link ball joint at the swivel assembly.



Now with the drag link taper disconnected turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and fit the bolt to lock the steering box to straight ahead.
You now have the road wheels straight ahead and steering box in the middle of travel and steering wheel straight.
You now adjust the drag links length by turning the hex in the bar between the two clamps until the taper that goes into the swivel assembly pushes in easily,(don't force it you may move the wheel.)
Tighten taper nut then both clamps bolts.
Remove the locking bolt.

You should now have full travel lock to lock steering wheel straight ahead and in middle of steering box travel.

Any further minor adjustment to get steering wheel to straight ahead position should be done by slackening clamps and adjusting drag link length.

Drag link clamp bolts M8 to 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft) and M10 bolts to 33 Nm (24 lbf.ft).
Drag link ball joint nuts tighten nut to 80 Nm (59 lbf.
Drop arm nut 40mm 240 Nm (177 lbf.ft)


When the box is locked with the bolt, as long as the steering wheel is within the " 5 too ", and, " 5 past ", position, this can be adjusted out by lengthening/shortening drag link.
If the steering wheel is pointing to turn left when you're actually travelling straight ahead, lengthen the drag link.
If the steering wheel is pointing to turn right when you're actually travelling straight ahead, shorten the link.
(Keep road wheels in straight ahead position when doing this.)
If its more than this, then really, the drop arm needs to taken of at the steering box input shaft and moved round a spline.

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Turn the steering all the way to one side and have a look at where the tyre is in relation to the trailing arms. From my experience with no steering stops fitted you should be able to hit the trailing arm with the tyre.

Checked that, as per Philip's post. At full lock left, the tyre is 25mm off the arm. At full lock right, 55mm off the arm. And that's with the lock stops out.

Thanks for the useful photos, ScotsD2. Looks like this may be the route to go down, now. I'm certain that the steering box and drop arm are correct. The steering points straight and level with the bolt in place, in the steering box. The only thing wrong there is the steering wheel being a few degrees to the right.
If it's all been adjusted in the past, I can't think why, but it clearly steers left better than it steers right!

KevF

Have a look at the steering damper before doing anything else.

It is clear that there is something preventing the steering from reaching full lock if the lock stop bolts don't touch and the tyres are a long way from the leading arms. We are getting somewhere now..

If it isn't the damper then it must be the steering box not going to the extent of its travel.

The next thing after the steering damper would IMHO to drop the tie rod end/ball joint from the front steering link to the drop arm , and compare the arc of the drop arm from the steering box with the drag link connected and disconnected. With it disconnected the steering box should positively stop at the end of its travel and the finishing points should be a bit further than you have recorded with the bump stops .
However my bet is on the steering damper.



Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by series3kev

Compared to my 300 TDi Disco 1, my D2 has an abysmal turning circle, from lock to lock.

I recall when the D2 first came out the explanation for the loss of turning circle over the D1 was to accommodate the ACE set up. Of course my memory could be playing tricks on me, or this was another example of LR Engineers coming up with excuses to explain away the loss of turning circle (i.e. Is a design feature). (-;

I recall when the D2 first came out the explanation for the loss of turning
circle over the D1 was to accommodate the ACE set up.

Yes maybe however that is not my experience RRC (=D1?) to D2.

Series 3kev has some problem that is preventing his steering reaching full lock to the lock stops . We have to help find out what it is.
Regards Philip A

Ive noticed how poor the turning circle is in my Disco 2 also,
its bog stock as far as modifications go.

Is anyone able to post a picture of exactly where these Lock Stops are?
And what needs to done to give the Disco a better turning circle?

If you look at picture 4 below the CV boot you will see a Allen head
cap screw and nut M12 this is where the lock stop nuts are normally
these have been swapped out with shorter screws for more clearance.