Thread: Key Fob Catastrophe

Have a look on either ebay or gumtree. You could also try a wrecker or order one from a UK supplier.

If you have a Nanocom you will be able to code it yourself using the code on the back of the circuit board. If you don't have one ask here and someone close to you may be able to help.

A final caution is to ensure the key frequency matches your vehicle. Early ones are 315mHz, later 433mHz

Cheers

Steve

How has it er broke itself.
The most likely thing is that a micro switch has died , and these are pretty easy to replace if you are handy with a small soldering iron. Jaycar have them and most microswitches are the same dimensions even though they may look different.
Just open it up and look under where the buttons are.
Of course it coiuld be something completely different as you haven't really told us anything to go by.
Regards Philip A

A few weeks ago one of my key fobs stopped locking/unlocking even though the light on the fob would function when the keys were pressed. Battery had been changed a few months prior too. Battery in the truck was, I thought, fine too (more on this later).

I took it to the local specialist after being unable to get the Nanocom to re-sync it to the computer (it wouldn't recognise it at all).

They initially tried the same process using the Autologic box and got the same result: would not work. They contacted LR in the UK to get the 16 (I think that's right) digit code for my fob to punch into the system - this took overnight to get a response but ultimately didn't make a difference as the 'recognise key' function of the Nanocom/Autologic picked up the 'new' fob immediately when it was presented to the system.

The 'new' fob was just an old fob that had been sitting around in a toolbox and it sync'd up straight away - so we swapped the board into my key fob and it's been great.

They said they hadn't seen that particular failure before; that it was usually about button/solder failing, as PhilipA noted.

This doesn't pinpoint the cause of your fob's failure (or mine), just notes that it can die with no apparent reason or cure. The best way to confirm the dodgey fob is to try another one. If that works OK, the only solution seems to be to buy another one.

What *may* be of relevance is that last week the starting battery of the truck just up and died - zero voltage and wouldn't accept a charge from my mains charger at all. Perhaps it was doing something weird (fluctuating voltage, if that's even possible) a few weeks back that 'crashed' the fob?

IMO the "receiving circuit" is at fault rather than the fob...which is not necessarily the roof receiver(which is the most common) but it can be the BCU too... that would explain the drain and the failed synk' s as well, the BCU and the receiver are klnown for intermittent issues

it's simple you must find a garage where they have a RF key fob tester(something like this [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37V3gejKCJc[/ame] ) to make sure about the fob ... then based on that you can continue the diagnose

The receiving function has to be ok because the spare is working.

The dead fob has no little red light and obviously won't unlock the car or remobilize the immobiliser.

Could be a button. I'm ham fisted and no good with a small soldering iron.

Tried two separate batteries JIC but No dice.

$300 seems a little steep?

I have several from a recent trip to UK.
Probably best to PM me as I'm not sure of the rules re advertising.
Lot less than $300
Mods: please delete if I'm out of order.
RR

you need this Land Rover Parts - KEY FOB REPAIR with MICRO SWITCHES + BATTERY - DISCOVERY 2 , the procedure is similar for all [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YsaL4GED8E[/ame]

I couldnt watch the video through. The guy in the 14 minute video made a simple 5 minute job look so difficult

Good on him for having a go, but ...........