Speedo correction D2 on 32's

Update-
Tyres have been fitted
265/75r16 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2
including spare and alignment was $1480

Wheel carrier flip mod took all of 10 minutes in the dark when I got home
Tyre only just rubs on rear bar (but only cause it got a love tap 4WDing on the weekend and now doesn't sit right- Steel rear bar was on the cards anyway)

Quickly tested Speedo accuracy on the way home (only using my Hema app on my phone)
and 10% out looks to be spot on

Ordered C6100 Corrector unit and will triple check with a few different GPS units when calibrating the corrector- unless someone already has the settings nutted out?

Cheers for all the advice/input

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

the odometer works on the same signal like the speedo, the corrector must be compatible with the VSS output from the SLABS ECU which is a 8000 pulse/mile PWM signal with amplitude between 0 -12v

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More to it than just that...

A 1hz pass-thru needs to be in the unit or things don't work...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

unless someone already has the settings nutted out?

Cheers for all the advice/input

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The settings seem to vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle. I set mine the same as another member but found my speedo was still out.

It was a good staring point though, which made the whole process quick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

More to it than just that...

A 1hz pass-thru needs to be in the unit or things don't work...

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are you sure it's not 1Khz ?

i'm asking cos i dont know: why a bandpass filter is needed? ...what's to be filtered from the VSS?, or do you mean some inverting amplifier? i have troubles with this terminology but i'm trying to figure out how these things work... one of these days i'll "attack" that VSS with the oscilloscope to see what's what

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

are you sure it's not 1Khz ?

i'm asking cos i dont know: why a bandpass filter is needed? ...what's to be filtered from the VSS?, or do you mean some inverting amplifier? i have troubles with this terminology but i'm trying to figure out how these things work... one of these days i'll "attack" that VSS with the oscilloscope to see what's what

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1khz could have been me getting it wrong.

Without the 1(k)hz signal the electronics think there is a problem and the speedo doesn't work. So you need a converter that doesn't affect this signal, but can still modify the speed signal.

The C6100-4 is able to do this, and at a good price.

Thanks... makes sense

C6100-4 Unit arrived this morning.. Overnight postage!

Ive read some conflicting information-

On a Manual To retain cruise control i should be installing the unit behind the dash cluster, rather than to the SLABS ECU output as directed by Slunnies write-up? Can someone please confirm this?
And confirm which wire is the speed sensor input if Im installing on the back of the cluster

And if anyone has a baseline value for the switchpacks, or even a dumbed-down way of working out the ratio so I can try and get it sorted?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dwarfmarine

C6100-4 Unit arrived this morning.. Overnight postage!

Ive read some conflicting information-

On a Manual To retain cruise control i should be installing the unit behind the dash cluster, rather than to the SLABS ECU output as directed by Slunnies write-up? Can someone please confirm this?
And confirm which wire is the speed sensor input if Im installing on the back of the cluster

And if anyone has a baseline value for the switchpacks, or even a dumbed-down way of working out the ratio so I can try and get it sorted?

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I have a Td5 manual and a C6100-4 fitted. I connected to the instrument cluster wiring and my speedo is corrected and cruise control still works correctly. There is NO flashing of the odo display even though the ECU mileage reading is lower (Not corrected).

I'd have to check the RAVE wiring diagram to tell you which cable was cut.

Just looked, it was the Pink with Green tracer that I cut, and joined the C6100 to. This is at the instrument cluster, plug C0230 pin 16.

I found the easiest way was to remove the instrument surround plastic cowl, and fish the two C6100 wires up And join in near the C0230 plug. C6100 brown wire to the Pink/Green from the ECU and C6100 Blue/Green to the Pink/Green going to the instrument plug C0230.

I have used the following switch settings;

01011010 for 235/85R16

10101010 for 245/75R16

Every tyre make and model will be slightly different, even if they are the same size, but should give a starting point for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

are you sure it's not 1Khz ?

i'm asking cos i dont know: why a bandpass filter is needed? ...what's to be filtered from the VSS?, or do you mean some inverting amplifier? i have troubles with this terminology but i'm trying to figure out how these things work... one of these days i'll "attack" that VSS with the oscilloscope to see what's what

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Its 1Hz.