RRC sold - were is the TD5 performance mod sticky?

New cooler and remove you cat and centre muffler before you chip it. You will have awesome power. Then VNT turbo I believe for reduced lag. After that upgrade the tranny to an ph24 from Ashcroft or similar with their bigger torque converter case that drops your stall point. Then you can start on suspension. Check out the 7100 thread. That's my wish list anyway.

That's funny only just caught up with this thread and thought I was the first reply. Tappatalk playing tricks on my I think.

Enough boys....

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

Today I sold my pride and joy! A 1988 RRC with everything done to it that i needed without going stupid. I do feel i'll regret it one day.... However i'm soon to purchase the old mans 2004 D2a TD5. I ventured onto the forum (Disco 2 section of course rather than the very knowledgeable RRC section) to see what performance upgrades were possible hoping there would be a sticky for the ones everyone does but to no avail.

Going from a 3.5lt V8 to a 2.5 I5 turbo diesel is a challenge, mostly due to turbo lag and lack of throttle response. While i understand they are completely different engines it would be nice to get the TD5 running better. I plan on getting it remapped by Bayswater Automatics (seen on 4WD Action) for approx. $1200 mostly as they are close and convenient. Rather than the back and forth from 'TD5 inside' for example.

Anyway all that aside - please, a list of wonderful things to do to a TD5 for someone earning an average income.

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Hi Jazzman, I understand where your coming from and here's some "low budget" tweaks i did over a 4 year period and it turned my TD5 from an asthmatic slug into a sprinter. In order.... New head gasket, steel dowels etc, Silicon inter cooler hoses, TRS remap, EGR mod, EGT and Boost gauges fitted, Mantec Snorkle fitted, centre muffler removal, waste gate adjustment to achieve 18PSI (peak was previously 12PSI), install BAS Boost box, bypass the Waste gate Modulator, waste gate adjustment to achieve 20PSI (by gauge reading). Air cleaner filter, Maf and Map sensors are checked and cleaned regularly. Since i commenced these mods I have been traveling regularly between Mornington Peninsula and Mansfield in Central Victoria and where once the D2 would bog down on long uphill climbs and with EGT's climbing alarmingly. She now sprints up those climbs effortlessly and with significantly lower EGTs. She's also no slouch at the lights :D

onebob

Thank you very much onebob, this is the exact information i was looking for.

I think my 2004 D2a already has steel dowels from factory (Correct me if i'm wrong). I've tweaked the wastegate a little but possibly too much so i'm going to turn it back today. I'll put my vacuum / pressure gauge on it before adjusting a second time.

I've put silicon hoses in my e-bay watch list, along with centre muffler removal, EGR removal and snorkel. Glad to here i'm heading down the right path.

Thanks for your help.

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Originally Posted by onebob

Hi Jazzman, I understand where your coming from and here's some "low budget" tweaks i did over a 4 year period and it turned my TD5 from an asthmatic slug into a sprinter. In order.... New head gasket, steel dowels etc, Silicon inter cooler hoses, TRS remap, EGR mod, EGT and Boost gauges fitted, Mantec Snorkle fitted, centre muffler removal, waste gate adjustment to achieve 18PSI (peak was previously 12PSI), install BAS Boost box, bypass the Waste gate Modulator, waste gate adjustment to achieve 20PSI (by gauge reading). Air cleaner filter, Maf and Map sensors are checked and cleaned regularly. Since i commenced these mods I have been traveling regularly between Mornington Peninsula and Mansfield in Central Victoria and where once the D2 would bog down on long uphill climbs and with EGT's climbing alarmingly. She now sprints up those climbs effortlessly and with significantly lower EGTs. She's also no slouch at the lights :D

onebob

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In my experience avoid Britpart products. I have returned most that I have purchased.

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Originally Posted by mattg

In my experience avoid Britpart products. I have returned most that I have purchased.

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Yes! how true - diecast parts especially (my son & I rebuilt a Rover 2.25L Petrol 4cyl in 2013) the quality is truly appalling:mad:

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Originally Posted by onebob

bypass the Waste gate Modulator

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Onebob I'm interested in this. I thought the modulator was to hold the waste gate closed a little longer, therefore giving better performance for short periods. Now that you have boost box and manual adjustment to the rod, do you believe it's not required? I have a similar set up but yet to delete the modulator. Probably makes sense to set up max boost with the gauge and do away with it.

Cheers.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app

Bypassing a working modulator reduces performance.

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When fitting your boost gauge - must go before the modulator (at turbo outlet pipe end) or it will get a modulated reading.

Is this true even with remap and boost box? I figured it might be outside the realms of it's calibration. I've not noticed any step change in boost pressure, where as when stock I believe I could feel boost cut back after a few seconds. Do you know if it's progressive or just open/closed?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app