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Thread: Brake Fade issue

  1. #1
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    Brake Fade issue

    2001 Disco TD5.... just finished renewing the fluid in the disco and also took the opportunity to install a new seal kit in the master cylinder as well.
    Put everything back together and used a Gunson Eezibleed system to completelt bleed all air from the lines. When finished, jumped into vehicle and put my foot on the pedal and found it to be pretty firm with no real give... better than its ever been, Started the engine with booster assist and pedal goes all the way to floor? Any ideas

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    I would try again using the traditional method with a second person. Make sure you get the order correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    I would try again using the traditional method with a second person. Make sure you get the order correct.
    thanks for the reply.
    I have tried several times now, including a powerbleed/s with the nanacom.
    No air bubbles coming through now although there were quite a few in the early stages.
    Still, with medium pressure on the brake pedal and engine running, pedal fairly smoothly goes all the way to the floor. Seems to me that this is most likely to be a master cylinder issue. Not looking forward to removing, inspecting, reinstalling and then another bleed.

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    have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
    MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
    MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
    1996 D1 300TDI GONE
    08 ford ranger c/c
    WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
    PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR

  5. #5
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    You put a seal kit in, maybe you put something in back to front? like cups lips?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Outback 1 View Post
    thanks ken,
    received the used master cylinder today (wednesday) and thanks for the quick service. Cleaned up, refitted and bled system again. Initially used the Gunston pressure bleeder before following up with a nanacom power bleed only to find I still have the same problem with the pedal going all the way to the floor, although a little slower than the original master cylinder. So it seems that the replacement used part you sent me itself is also leaking internally around the seals.
    Went through the thread you mentioned above and there were a few interesting suggestions there. Tried cycling the abs actuator by driving in low range with TC and hill decent engaged up to 40km/hr then releasing throttle and allowing abs to bring me back to about 7km/hr. This supposedly will flush trapped air from the actuator into the brake lines where another bleed can be performed. Did this and brakes felt marginally better, however, pedal still goes all the way to the floor. This still indicates to me a faulty (leaking) master cylinder.
    Dave . (Wangaratta)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    You put a seal kit in, maybe you put something in back to front? like cups lips?
    thanks for the response mario,
    I made a point of checking the placement of the parts that came out and the new ones that went in. I did also double check the new seals when I removed the master cylinder the second time. I also checked the install against the RAVE diagram. One possible problem is that there were 2 seals (1x large & 1 small) from the primary circuit (within the master cylinder) that I could not replace as I cannot find a 5 sided allen key that is required to access this area. There is also a small seal in the secondary circuit that cannot be replaced as well as the plunger assembly does not appear to be able to be disassembled. Seems to be pretty pointless for suppliers to sell a master cylinder seal kit where half the parts can't be installed.

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    DAVE AS I MENTIONED IN THE OTHER THREAD (I THINK) THE D2 PEDAL WILL SINK IF YOU PUSH HARD (MINE STILL DOES)BUT WITH NORMAL PRESSURE IT STOPS AND HOLDS FINE , I SENT MINE TO A DEALER TO HAVE IT BLED AS IT DID NOT FEEL RIGHT TO ME AFTER DRIVING CARS UTES ETC THEY COULD NOT GET ANY AIR OUT EITHER AND TOLD ME THE BRAKES WERE FINE HAVE YOU DRIVEN IT YET TO SEE HOW IT STOPS
    have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
    MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
    MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
    1996 D1 300TDI GONE
    08 ford ranger c/c
    WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
    PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR

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    Quote Originally Posted by Outback 1 View Post
    DAVE AS I MENTIONED IN THE OTHER THREAD (I THINK) THE D2 PEDAL WILL SINK IF YOU PUSH HARD (MINE STILL DOES)BUT WITH NORMAL PRESSURE IT STOPS AND HOLDS FINE , I SENT MINE TO A DEALER TO HAVE IT BLED AS IT DID NOT FEEL RIGHT TO ME AFTER DRIVING CARS UTES ETC THEY COULD NOT GET ANY AIR OUT EITHER AND TOLD ME THE BRAKES WERE FINE HAVE YOU DRIVEN IT YET TO SEE HOW IT STOPS
    hi ken,
    the pedal did sink very slowly before I did the seal kit, and this was the reason for doing it.
    the disco stopped ok.. but not as well as it should have. With the replacement master cylinder installed, it brakes ok but still sinks all the way to the floor under medium pressure.
    Whilst the vehicle brakes do work, this is not the issue. The issue is that the brakes 'should not' sink all the way to the floor. Some members on this forum seem to think this is a 'spongy' brake. It is not!!! Spongy brakes occur when air is present in the system (even a tiny amount) and whilst this is acceptable to some, it is not the same as a pedal eventually going all the way to the floor. This is going to be an issue with the master cylinder seal/s leaking and can be a dangerous thing. eg. being stopped on a steep incline / decline with the brake pedal approaching the floor and you are not in a position to be able to take your foot off to allow a fresh fluid charge into the master cylinder. I understand that a lot of members are quite content with their 'soft' spongy brakes and consider it to be quite normal but I am not... I would like to have them working correctly.... particularly as most of the time I am towing a 3 tonne caravan around Oz.

  10. #10
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    Reading that the brakes work, are not spongy but the peddle will continue to the floor and you know this is not right.

    Assuming the master cylinder is working correctly. And there is no fluid leaking everywhere (you seem like a pretty smart bloke who would have noticed this)

    Is it possible there is a valve that enables the pressure to be released when the ABS is doing its job? If so, maybe this valve is faulty and allowing the brake fluid to bypass instead of applying max pressure the the rotor caliper.

    This would explain no fluid loss, a working master cylinder pushing fluid, brakes that still work (probably would have to pump the peddle for long periods of braking), but the break peddle traveling too far.

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