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Discorevy is correct that it is worth changing the Thermostat as well as the Cap, however what may be happening is when you load the engine either hard up hill or towing, the extra heat generated in the head can open up cracks or head gasket leaks and cause the symptoms you describe. I hope not but it is likely I'm afraid.
Nick
Thermostat is new. Replaced last year then got new genuine one which put on when was fixing head gasket so its brand new. Wouldnt the checks pic up on that though pippin? It's not lost water or stayed pressurized. Like before system was always pressurized lol
How do we find out if head is cracked with it on the car? Same way as before with a pressure check? I am booking it in with pcb but will take a few weeks as hes very booked up so sussing out what i can in the meantime
Is there any evidence of coolant anywhere? . check carpet is not wet , is the viscous fan working, did the water pump locate to back of power steering pump when fitted .you said there was a noise from that area originally.When you had to redo the oil leak on the cam carrier you would have had to undo the head bolts again , possibly breaking the gasket seal, try checking these things in that order ( easiest to hardest)
You can't. But try bleeding the cooling system again carefully. It is important to fill the system with the expansion tank raised about 10cm and the bleed screw out until you get a steady flow of coolant from the bleed screw hole. Replace the bleed screw, cap and relocate the tank. Then bring it up to operating temperature and check the level again. Also before you do all this check that the small metal tube in the expansion tank is not blocked, which is quite common after your issues.
Nick
Head bolts single use and gasket?????????????????????
What pippin said + check telltale has a stream of coolant when engine is running, this can be seen when cap removed , they can also block, if so remove little hose from radiator end and check, if its clear and no coolant is coming out , this can mean either water pump not working or system not bled
Hello Epic
With a bit of luck there may be not much damage. I note that you have a "chip". Yesterday was 40+ degrees and you were towing. If you were up around Mt Barker, or Freeway, on a long climb it WILL overheat. Did you notice if the air con shut off and then started to shut down cylinders? The repair shop you are booked into recommends coming back in the gears and using higher revs to keep the air flow through the engine and run about three quarter throttle. East or South out of here with 2 tonnes behind requires the above strategy.
Good Luck
Regards
Harry.
Yeah ive towed in that way always and have never had an issue over heating until all of this. Even towing almost to limit of tow capacity on boiling days and air con on :( ill re bleed that way by lifting expansion tank. no coolant evidence anywhere. Ill check thw little hoses too. And new bolts etc were used. Water pump is new too. Fan is good as well. I hope to figure this out soon :(
Well changed the radiator cap.as so far its not over pressurized again. Still not trusting my normally faithful car however. The trans seems to be having some issues going into lock up. And abs light keeps going on and off lol. Seriously sick of the gremlins that have hitched onto my car. I will find them and i will kill them all!!! But trans service and radiator flush on the cards this weekend. Still makes a weird rattly noise since head gasket was done. Power seems to be normal though.
What an "Epic" thread, thanks for the insight!
I'm looking to do the same to my car in the next month or so; I guess what I've taken away from this is to:
- Have a copy of RAVE, and the relevant sheets printed out
- Get some timing pins
- Make sure that all bolts are carefully torqued to spec
- Be careful with the injectors, remove them while the head is in the car
- Take your time
Could you add anything else?
Cheers, Carl