Thread: IT RUNS AGAIN!

Your welcome mate ,
Sounds like you have the rocker cover on already , but might be an idea to check cam timing before the test drive. Easier to do with fan off , turning crank clockwise with 24 mm socket
Cheers

Hi again. Well it started after I got the juice pumped up to it. It could be that I had not finished clearing all the air yesterday.
When it started it would only run at idle , no throttle response. Suddenly it picked up and revved well.
When put into gear it was not going to move forward (auto).
Only by revving it out of gear and then selecting drive would it move, then it went well.
Drove it about 5 kms down the road still the same, not happy to take off. It only needed a few more revs to get it going. Is this the timing as I think it could be and do I change it by rotating the cam sprocket on the front. If this is so , by how much and when do I know when I have it right?

Probably worth doing an engine oil change before too long.





Erich

Yes its your cam timing , have to go , but read last couple of pages on page 2 epic dragons headgasket yay , remember to turn motor by hand
Until you are sure you have it correct this is cam timing .... You don't want to bend valves
Cheers

I have me a rocketship. played with the timing and all of a sudden it is pulling well again.
A big thank you to all of you who have taken the trouble to help another landrovian. This forum rocks.
It is also about learning about your rover and how it works. Thanks.
Regards Nick.
By the way , I changed the oil and filters after I put the head back on last week.

This is an earlier post of mine below to Epic Dragon on getting the timing correct, if you do this with Discorevy's comments also you should get it right. The rattling should disappear as air in the injectors is finally displaced, but it may also be the lifters that have some residual air.





Ideally you need to lock both with pins, for the bell housing pin a drill of a suitable size will do to position the crank at TDC on No.1 cylinder. With the pin also in the camshaft the workshop manual describes the process as follows:
12. Check that mark on camshaft sprocket is positioned between the 2 coloured links on timing chain.
13. Position sprocket to camshaft, fit and lightly tighten 3 new bolts then loosen bolts half a turn.
14. Clean fixed guide Allen screw and apply Locktite 242 to screw threads.
15. Fit fixed timing chain guide Allen screw and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft)
16. Clean timing chain tensioner and fit new sealing washer.
17. Fit timing chain tensioner and tighten to 45Nm (33 lbf.ft)
18. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts to 37Nm (27lbf.ft)
Etc.....................................
Nick

This morning I went to start the disco. Again it started well but was a little slow to rev to the throttle and ran a little roughly.
Later I drove it into town 35 kms.I found it a bit gutless and a little slow off the lights.
I now know it is timing on the cam sprocket but can anyone tell me from my description if I need to go clockwise or anti clockwise on the cam sprocket when I go to move it and how much I need to move.
It seems a bit of an ordeal to pull the fan and remove the rocker cover and lock the cam every time I want to move the timing. Then to have to put it all back only to have to do it again.
any suggestions welcome.
Regards Nick.(Worane)

Lock crank at tdc from drivers side of bell housing , remove cam plug and rocker cover , camshaft cutout should line up exactly with hole , if not then , without letting crank move.. loosen 3cam sprocket bolts and turn cam until it lines up with cutout ... Without letting cam or crank move turn cam sprocket by hand as tight as you can anti clockwise when looking from front of car and tighten sprocket bolts to specs, this ensures no slack in chain
Seems a bit odd that it was running OK before .......you didn't use silicon between head halves by any chance?