Thread: TD5 breather pressure

Originally Posted by bronson

Hey Jazzman,
Ive just done a rebuild on mine.....293k was lipped on cylinder one and five, broken ring and low comp. 10.5K later shes back on the rd.

cheers
bronson

I'm assuming you paid someone else to rebuild it for that price? And you replaced the head?

Originally Posted by Jazzman

Has anyone resleeved a TD5 while the block was still bolted into the car? I believe I can make a tool to remove the old sleeves, possibly fit the new ones too.

Having said that has anyone done it before?

Found this on web
Easier Installation
The old school way of installing a dry sleeve was to place it in the bore, put a block of wood over the top of the sleeve and then pound it down into the block with a hammer. That may have worked years ago when dimensions and clearances are not as critical as they are today, but that kind of installation procedure has no place in today's machine shops.
The recommended way to install sleeves is to chill or freeze the sleeves and to preheat the block. Placing the sleeves in a household deep freeze will typically shrink their outer diameter about .002˝. Packing them with dry ice or spraying them with some liquid nitrogen will shrink them even more, typically .003˝ or so. This often allows the sleeves to drop right in with little or no effort, reducing the risk of damaging or distorting the sleeves. Preheating the block slightly to about 120 degrees will also open up the bores a bit, making installation easier. If you do need to apply force to push the sleeve into place, don't beat on it with a hammer, use a mandrel to press it in.
Here's another tip for performance engine builders: stress relieve the block after sleeving by mounting the block on a vibratory table and letting it shake at high frequency for 15 to 30 minutes. Cryogenically treating the block (freezing it down to minus 300 degrees F below zero in a long slow freeze and thaw cycle) is another method that can stress relieve blocks and reduce block distortion.

Finishing the Cylinders
Once the sleeves have been installed, the inside of the cylinder can be finished to specifications. Getting the rings to seat and seal properly requires a finish that provides good support for the rings, retains oil and does not require a lengthy break-in period. For most late-model and performance engines, that means a plateau finish.
A plateau bore finish is what all types of rings eventually produce when they are fully seated, so the closer the bore can be prefinished to a plateau-like condition the less the rings and cylinders will wear as the engine breaks in, the better the rings will seal right from the start, and the longer the rings will last.
For moly rings, a two-step honing process can be used to achieve a plateau finish. First, hone with a conventional #280 grit silicon carbide vitrified abrasive. Then finish by briefly touching the bores with a #400 grit stone or giving them several strokes with an abrasive nylon honing tool or brush.
If the cylinders are honed with diamond stones, you can follow up with a finer grit diamond, a fine grit vitrified abrasive or a brush to finish the bores.
If you're not applying a plateau finish to the cylinders, honing with #220 grit silicon carbide stones works well with plain cast iron or chrome rings. Use #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, or #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance.
After the cylinders have been honed, don't forget to scrub them out with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all honing and metallic debris. This is an often overlooked step that can ruin a new set of rings in a hurry.

Diesel Wet Liners
If you're rebuilding a diesel or industrial engine that has wet liners, interference fit is not a concern. Most such liners are a simple slip fit installation, and many are prefinished to specifications. Even so, you should pay close attention to the condition of the counterbores in the block so the liners are supported properly ? especially if the engine has been rebuilt before. If the counterbore that supports the liner flange is damaged or corroded, it will have to be remachined to support the liner properly.
Use the type of seal lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong type of lubricant may cause the seal to swell, preventing the liner from fitting properly.
If the old liners have a heavy coating of lime or scale on the outside, the cooling jackets in the block as well as the rest of the cooling system should be cleaned. Anything that sticks to the outside of the liners can inhibit heat transfer.
Many late-model diesel engines require cylinder liners that are induction hardened, ductile iron or some other type of high quality wear-resistant iron alloy. Cheaper materials won't hold up and will likely result in rapid wear and premature failure. A good quality liner should easily last 500,000 miles or more in a Class 8 over-the-road truck.
Liner protrusion must also be correct for the head gasket to seal properly. If one cylinder liner sits higher than those in the adjacent cylinders, it can affect sealing.



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Related articles:

1. The Benefits of Forced Induction

- See more at: Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourParts
Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourPartsEasier Installation
The old school way of installing a dry sleeve was to place it in the bore, put a block of wood over the top of the sleeve and then pound it down into the block with a hammer. That may have worked years ago when dimensions and clearances are not as critical as they are today, but that kind of installation procedure has no place in today's machine shops.
The recommended way to install sleeves is to chill or freeze the sleeves and to preheat the block. Placing the sleeves in a household deep freeze will typically shrink their outer diameter about .002˝. Packing them with dry ice or spraying them with some liquid nitrogen will shrink them even more, typically .003˝ or so. This often allows the sleeves to drop right in with little or no effort, reducing the risk of damaging or distorting the sleeves. Preheating the block slightly to about 120 degrees will also open up the bores a bit, making installation easier. If you do need to apply force to push the sleeve into place, don't beat on it with a hammer, use a mandrel to press it in.
Here's another tip for performance engine builders: stress relieve the block after sleeving by mounting the block on a vibratory table and letting it shake at high frequency for 15 to 30 minutes. Cryogenically treating the block (freezing it down to minus 300 degrees F below zero in a long slow freeze and thaw cycle) is another method that can stress relieve blocks and reduce block distortion.

Finishing the Cylinders
Once the sleeves have been installed, the inside of the cylinder can be finished to specifications. Getting the rings to seat and seal properly requires a finish that provides good support for the rings, retains oil and does not require a lengthy break-in period. For most late-model and performance engines, that means a plateau finish.
A plateau bore finish is what all types of rings eventually produce when they are fully seated, so the closer the bore can be prefinished to a plateau-like condition the less the rings and cylinders will wear as the engine breaks in, the better the rings will seal right from the start, and the longer the rings will last.
For moly rings, a two-step honing process can be used to achieve a plateau finish. First, hone with a conventional #280 grit silicon carbide vitrified abrasive. Then finish by briefly touching the bores with a #400 grit stone or giving them several strokes with an abrasive nylon honing tool or brush.
If the cylinders are honed with diamond stones, you can follow up with a finer grit diamond, a fine grit vitrified abrasive or a brush to finish the bores.
If you're not applying a plateau finish to the cylinders, honing with #220 grit silicon carbide stones works well with plain cast iron or chrome rings. Use #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, or #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance.
After the cylinders have been honed, don't forget to scrub them out with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all honing and metallic debris. This is an often overlooked step that can ruin a new set of rings in a hurry.

Diesel Wet Liners
If you're rebuilding a diesel or industrial engine that has wet liners, interference fit is not a concern. Most such liners are a simple slip fit installation, and many are prefinished to specifications. Even so, you should pay close attention to the condition of the counterbores in the block so the liners are supported properly ? especially if the engine has been rebuilt before. If the counterbore that supports the liner flange is damaged or corroded, it will have to be remachined to support the liner properly.
Use the type of seal lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong type of lubricant may cause the seal to swell, preventing the liner from fitting properly.
If the old liners have a heavy coating of lime or scale on the outside, the cooling jackets in the block as well as the rest of the cooling system should be cleaned. Anything that sticks to the outside of the liners can inhibit heat transfer.
Many late-model diesel engines require cylinder liners that are induction hardened, ductile iron or some other type of high quality wear-resistant iron alloy. Cheaper materials won't hold up and will likely result in rapid wear and premature failure. A good quality liner should easily last 500,000 miles or more in a Class 8 over-the-road truck.
Liner protrusion must also be correct for the head gasket to seal properly. If one cylinder liner sits higher than those in the adjacent cylinders, it can affect sealing.



Share This Article





Related articles:

1. The Benefits of Forced Induction

- See more at: Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourParts