Reply With QuoteMy guess is crook thermostat.
I have an 82c standard spec and it runs at 82-85 around town and on highway except on long grades towing.
Regards Philip A
Master
SupporterFirst thing I did when we purchased our disco late last year, was have the water output from the head moddified to accept a temp probe from the MadMan, and change the thermostat.
I was sold a Britpart thermostat, and and assured from the w/shop that "we always use these ones on customers cars, and never have a problem"
Good enough I though, and off I went.
Now, over the last few months I have been diagnosing some MAF faults, and took a few dumps from my Nanocom, one of the things that was noticed by another member here, was that my coolant temp@ cruise, was sustantially higher than other peoples, read 97 Degrees @ Highway speeds (temp take with nanocom).
SInce then I have changed coolant, and had my madman finally fitted.
MadMan confirms what the Nanocom is saying, and at highway speed, I am getting about 97 Degrees coolant temp. Puttering around town, I might get down to 92, and somewhere in between.
New coolant was Nulon Red, stuck the hose in, and have it as good of a flush as I could.
What I have noticed is, that after a decent drive, long enough to get upto operating temp, and quuickly popping the bonnet when arriving home, is that the outlet from the radiator to the thermostat isnt hot, and the RHS radiator tank is cold to touch, wheres the LHS is untouchable.
So, do I have a crook radiator, and its not flowing coolant from one side to the other, or, do I have a wonky thermostat, that isnt opening at temp?
I have checked and double checked its orrientation, and am satisfied that its installed with the outlets facing their correct directions. Surely the OEM radiator isnt THAT efficient that it can drop +90 Degree water down to sub 60 degree temps!
The second part of this question, revolves around replacing the thermostat AGAIN, with a genuine one this time, im thinking of going to a PEL500110, 82 Degrees w/Light spring, as the heavy spring jobbies seem to be for cooler climates to get the heater warmed up sooner, correct???
Swaggie
SubscriberMy guess is crook thermostat.
I have an 82c standard spec and it runs at 82-85 around town and on highway except on long grades towing.
Regards Philip A
Master
Subscribercareful buying aftermarket thermostats just by the part no,MadMan confirms what the Nanocom is saying, and at highway speed, I am getting about 97 Degrees coolant temp. Puttering around town, I might get down to 92, and somewhere in between
I bought a B***m**h thermostat PEL500110 (supposed to be 82deg)
Fitted to my D2 & had the same running temps as you, pulled the thermostat to find it had 92deg stamped on the inside metal part of the thermostat....
paid top $$ & couldn't get a refund because I had fitted it to my vehicle.
I even e-mailed B***m**h complaining about the thermostat & the running temp but I never received any response from them...
May be the wrong thermostat ended up in the wrong box, i don't know but it ended up Wasted time & money.
Finally found a thermostat on evilbay with the 82 deg on the add
89 RRC
92 RRC Sherwood
YarnMaster
When it's really warm outside after a longer drive the thermostat is supposed to be fully open no matter what initial opening temp it has so that's not an issue as long as it's not blocked closed IMO, did you fill and purge the system as in the book with tank raised above the bleed hole?, you must be certain that it's airless first of all, release gently the bleed screw after a longer drive with engine running and if you see bubbles or air bleed it well before you do something else, also for high running temps it's not uncommon that the viscous fan to not lock well then the cooling will be reduced, try to stop it with a rolled newspaped with eengine running when the radiator is hot and if it stops that's a problem too, also the tank's cap must be completely tightened
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
ChatterBox
SubscriberAgree it sounds like thermostat, you probably have as you say ,a heavy spring 92 degree one , easy test which I do even with new ones is to put in a pan with a thermometer to check they work ,this can save work later on .
Sierrafery , 92 degree thermostat will result in approx 92-97 coolant temp ( which can go a lot higher towing up hill on a hot day)
82 degree means 82-87 coolant temp which gives more margin
Cheers
Master
SupporterI will be buying genuine, won't be burnt with a non genuine unit again.
Ive got a V8 not a TD5 but recently went through a similar cooling issue.Originally Posted by Phat-Customs
I bought a 82 deg thermo of ebay - it runs all day now at 87/88deg, but initially i had issues.
What i found it that i installed it according to the diagram in the latest RAVE CD and the diagram has the thermo the wrong way around.
When you but the 82 deg thermos off ebay, they do not have the "PUMP" side marked, so if you follow the rave diagram you will put the wrong side going to the rad.
I did this initially and my temp was running high 90s
Turned it around and dropped straight to 87-88 deg and never moves either highway or idle.
Here's a link to my other post on this
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post2333247
Master
SupporterI've checked and checked and checked again my orientation and I'm 99% sure that it's correct.
I have the little kick-out going to the pump. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1428373372.148196.jpg
I found this pic on the net somewhere, the bypass and pump hoses are getting hot, but the rad pipe is still cold. It's as though the bypass isn't blocking off and the water is just going the easiest way, and not through the radiator.
I'll be gutting the T-stat tonight or tomorrow, and blanking the bypass hose to see what happens, see if I can get some flow through the rad and what sort of temps I get then.
ChatterBox
SubscriberGutting it will not tell you much unless you are prepared to drive it pretty hard for half an hour or so to get it to operating temperature
Why not just test it if you are going to remove it anyway?
Master
Subscriber
it sounds more & more like the thermostat is shot & stuck closed, forcing coolant through the bypass, as when the thermostat opens it puts pressure on the bypass valve to close & go through the thermostat
P.S
For the sake of your engine just fit a new thermostat, & double check its installed the right way....
you cannot blank off the bypass either, as in the 1st diagram, the cold coolant comes in through the bypass & out to the pump, as the coolant warms, flowing through the bypass to pump, it heats the thermostat (diagram 2), as the thermostat opens it allows flow from the radiator, and puts pressure to close bypass as in diagram 3.
The bypass is needed to heat the thermostat initially.
Last edited by roverv8; 8th April 2015 at 07:04 AM. Reason: P.S
89 RRC
92 RRC Sherwood
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks