Thread: AHH It's finally acting like a landrover

Firstly thanks to roverlord for the excellent service, the parts I ordered turned up very speedily.
Nanocom turned up today so have been playing with that all night.got a heap of error codes in the ace system that I forgot to write down but will worry about them after I change the front actuator.


Got some error codes in engine and was wondering if anyone would know what they mean as have looked in the electronic diagnostic system pages and couldn't work out this one.

31,4 injector 4 open circuit detected, (logged)

the others I am assuming are

3,7 air flow circuit (logged high) means clean MAF sensor when I change the air filter
and

20,5 EGR valve stuck closed , (logged)means no nasty hot gasses getting into my clean intake air.


If anyone could inform me if I am barking up the wrong tree on the errors that I think I have figured out or what the injector error means (I think it means I have to go looking for a short somewhere) it would be appreciated.
Thanks
Wayne

Hi, for the injector fault code check if you have oil in the ECM red plug or in the upper plug in the head...if there is any replace the injector loom ASAP cos that's the reason, as long as it's open circuit it's not a short but a bad contact/interruption somewhere or in the worst case injector solenoid failure

IMO only cleaning the MAF would not help much if you've got the air flow high fault code cos dirty sensor would give you low signals... it means you need a new MAF cos the filament is worn or the crankcase breather(depression controll) valve is "tired" and a lack or excess of crankcase gasses can mix up the MAF readings...if you know that the valve is old better replace it as preventative maintainance cos it's not expensive and you better have a well working one believe me

the EGR fault code is normal as long as your's is de-EGR'd but if the EGR is still there check the valve cos it might be stuck due to excessive muck which can affect the inlet air flow and reduce performance, also if EGR is still on clean the MAP/IAT sensor cos it's certainly full of dirt

Thanks for that.
I thought about the loom but I thought that would affect more than one injector. I'll get onto checking that tomorrow.


Looks like a new valve and maf sensor to get ordered as I don't know any history for this car other than what I have done in the last couple of months which thankfully isn't much.


Was planning on de egring it at a later date but it sounds like I am moving that up a bit so that will be de egr, intercooler clean, map clean and hopefully no broken bolts when I take the inlet manifold off to clean it.


Now to hide this lot from the financier as she is still spewing about the new key, ace actuator and nanocom.


Thanks again
Wayne

Sorry to be a pain but could someone tell me what the nanocom measures turbo boost as (BAR or PSI) as when I floor it , it only gets up to 1.something otherwise it lives in the 0.somethings, I need to buy a proper boost guage
Thanks
wayne

on instrument mode you should get 1.3 bar at full load and 230kpa manifold pressure in fueling inputs, see the ambient pressure and how much it drops under full load cos faulty AAP sensor would limit the boost at 1 bar though you should get a fault code for that... make sure the wastegate rod is not stuck and the turbo hoses are not delaminated but as you still got EGR this can affect boost if it's clogged also the MAP sensor is presumably full of muck then it will read lower

Time to order new injector loom.
Any hints on getting oil out of ecu , I've just got it sitting in sun in driveway with plugs down at the moment to drain.
At least MAP sensor wasn't too bad just a little oil and tiny bit us carbon on it.
Havent had a chance to pull intercooler hoses yet but I would say they are stuffed as they are still black rubber and the one going into the intercooler is that soft you can cave it in just pushing on it with one finger.
What gets me though is that around town it goes fine just put your foot down and it takes off its just at 100 and you floor it to overtake and you look stupid when you puul out then have to pull back in because it juast aint there

Spray it clean with dedicated electric contact spray then let it dry in the sun, take off it's covers and if rte oil got into it clean it there too... use only genuine loom, get a set of silicone turbo hoses and replace them all, replace the depression controll valve too then you'lll have a different car

Remove the seal in the red plug until a couple of months after you fit the new injector harness and keep it handy in the vehicle. This will enable the oil coming in from the wires to escape without getting into the ecu. The oil will continue to capillary for a while after fitting the new harness. Just refit the seal if you intend to do any river crossings