Thread: Engine Starving for fuel

Hi, the fuel delivery system is under pressure while the engine is running so any pinhole should let fuel out not air in

how do you know that the pump stops while driving cos that would be quite hard to notice? ... if the engine starts and runs well after a bleeding sequence then stops again after a while seems more like injector washers/seals problem to me unless the pump itself is on it's way out... or the inertia fuel cut-off switch is making tricks, unplug it, bridge the pins in the connector and try so but if it cures your problem replace it with a good one cos it's an important safety equipment

you can try to replace the air bleed valve(WJN500110) in the rear wheel side connection of the filter head maybe you are lucky to be only that

Hi Sierra,

I have the lid off in the boot so I can hear the pump quite easily at the moment hence knowing it just stops.

The engine definitely runs fine when running, I can do the injector washer/seals so might go down that path. It isn't gaining oil, when the injectors seals leak do they always gain oil (diesel in oil) or is it only on some?

I will try the cutoff switch first as that is easy to do.

How does the air bleed valve cause an issue? Is it not allow the air that gets in out?

Thanks.

Yes but the pump stops with engine running or not? cos if it stops with ignition on only it's normal, if it stops with engine running check if you get feed on the white/purple wire then to see if it cuts out itself or the feed is vanishing

the running problems are caused more likely by the injector washers cos they let compression through and that can kill the pump

the air bleed valve is there to stop air getting into the pump and it used to cause mostly starting problems but i've seen cases when it gave missfire too

It was not on a Land Rover, but on a Toyota I had a similar problem it turned out to be a bit of crud blocking the fuel pick up in the tank. I ended up blowing it clear and by chance the floating bit of crud never made its way back to the pipe again. I really should have flushed the tank. My symptoms were I primed the fuel and it ran for a few minutes tops and then stalled. Then the fuel needed priming again. After I cleared the pipe all was good, it might be worth checking. AlsoI have not looked at the plumbing on my Defender yet, but on some diesels a leaking return can cause issues (Totota wont tolerate an return air leak), but Sierrafery knows more about Landy's than I do, but if it was me I would be eliminating the pinhole as a potential problem.
Chris

How do you know that the fuel pump is good ? I have known of them to fail in less than 12 months (it was aftermarket though ) I would be thinking that the pump is the issue

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Gidday again,

Right I'll try cover everything. So pump is good as it has a very new one (OEM) in there so that should really eliminate that.

I have had pump out and it is clean as in there, nothing on filters etc. that includes filter behind FPR.

The pump is stopping while the engine is running when it shouldn't, I am well aware of the fact it will stop after a amount of time when priming.

As for the crash/g-switch thingy, I don't think that is the issue. As soon as the engine stops you can turn ignition and the pump runs again straight away.


Now I sorted that pin hole leak on the return pipe today and got the thing running to do some more troubleshooting. So still no fix but I think have put more pieces together.

It will run fine from cold and won't have an issue until sometime after the temp gauge indicates normal operating temperature. Now another bit to this is once I get it running again I drove it short distance on my property into shed and left idling, it will just idle away no worries at all and won't stop.

Also the engine is pushing oil out the rocker cover gasket at the back of the engine where it has a half circle bit, I had wiped up oil marks while idling and before shutting off it had another oil trace line from that part.

So:
1) Engine must be warm/hot
2) Appears to require some amount of boost for the engine to cut itself out.

This in my mind is leading me towards the injector seals/washers as has been mentioned further up.

Would you agree with this thinking?

Thanks for your time I know its getting long winded.

You might be right. BUT the Toyota I had did the same, I could idle it for ages, convinced I had fixed it I went on the highway and broke down. Put an airline down the fuel line just to eliminate this as a potential problem, I messed about for days and this is all it was. It might not be but it is easy to eliminate.
Regards
Chris

Well I'm into doing injector seals/washers and the camlobe wear on 2-5 is not looking good. #1 is fine and #5 is bearable but the rest are pretty bad, same goes for the rocker follower rollers.

So looks like I'm in for doing that in the near future, I will get some pictures up at some point.

As for the injectors the base under the copper washer seems to have a kind of seal thing there and on some it is buggered and not on others, don't know if the copper washer alone would be good enough if that is a problem.

Guess I will see.