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Thread: D2 Brake pedal effort required ?

  1. #1
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    D2 Brake pedal effort required ?

    My mate has asked about brake pedal effort required on his D2, on the first push a lot of effort is required and the car stops slowly but is reliable and passed a RWC with no problems.
    However if he does a second quick push on the brake pedal the effort is very much reduced and the car stops very quickly.
    I have not driven a D2 and have no idea of normal pedal effort and braing ability of a D2 and if this change in brake effort is normal.


    All advice welcome !


    Ian
    Bittern Vic

  2. #2
    schuy1 Guest
    That seems normal. Although the first application is often described as "spongy" more than hard. That seems to be a d2 trait

  3. #3
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    I've only driven D2's on test drives, the brakes, to me, seem much the same as a regular car. (I have a Toyota Echo as my daily drive) It sounds as if there is an issue with the brakes. If you have bought it, I'd suggest that you replace the brake fluid by flushing the lines. I think from the brake furthest from the reservoir first. Other people here may know more on that. Burson in Mornington have a kit to use when flushing the brakes.
    And see what other people here come up with. I am not an expert.


    Cheers

    Bo

  4. #4
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    If its a V8 check brake booster is holding vacuum, to do this the easy way turn car off , wait a minute, then push on brake pedal , you should be able to pump 2 or 3 times before you lose vacuum
    If td5 do the same but also check vacuum pump is OK also check egr lines are on or blocked off properly if bypassed

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by schuy1 View Post
    That seems normal. Although the first application is often described as "spongy" more than hard. That seems to be a d2 trait
    Yup! and it's been referred to in the past as the "chauffuer pedal". Now I've never owned a D2 from new so I have no reference point as to whether my pedal is "normal". However it's always been spongey and i got her when she was 11 years old. To compensate I've got into the habit of a doing a double pedal push to get a good pedal feel. Thinking that the soft pedal "might" be due to the aging rubber flexible lines six months ago i changed those brake lines to Goodrich braided lines and although there was a noticed improvement the pedal feel (less spongey) on first push the pedal still had a disconcertingly long travel before applicating the brakes but firming to a higher pedal for the second push. For those of us that service our own D2's I've been told that the age old pumping the pedal manual method of bleeding the brake lines doesn't purge the whole system!. Last 2 times I've employed the method of manually activating the ABS pump to bleed the brakes but it does not improve the pedal feel. Apparently LR dealers and owners of a Hawkeye and a Nanocom can purge/bleed the "entire" system but whether or not it eliminates the "chauffuer pedal" i don't know but others will I'm sure.

    onebob
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  6. #6
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    If your got access to a nanacom or similar do a modulater power bleed and see it it feels different after. A couple of my customers have sworn the brakes felt firmer after this.

    re bleeding the brakes, check RAVE, I remember that it explained which caliper to bleed first and it wasn't the furtherest
    Regards,
    Mario


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    If

    re bleeding the brakes, check RAVE, I remember that it explained which caliper to bleed first and it wasn't the furtherest
    Regards,
    Mario
    It's been years since I did the brakes on a car, until Feb 2015, when I got a Nissan Pootrol through a road worthy, one of the issues was dirty brake fluid. 3 days after the reg got transferred, some f@%^&rs stole and wrote of the vehicle.
    To me, spongy brakes sounds like water or other contaminants in the brake fluid.
    Well I get to test drive another one on Saturday and I'll be aware of the brakes, although in the 5 I have test driven this year, the brakes were not an issue, I can't say the same for the transfer box, MAF, Harmonic balancer, dodgy gear lever, waste gate acuator.

    Cheer Bo

  8. #8
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    Yep had that on my D2 V8. After changing the Master Cyl and cleaning the booster sealing area it was a little better but still not like other lesser vehicles.

    I do remember reading somewhere that the Land Rovers are designed with "Long Throw Peddles" to enhance Off Road control. That sounds like something LR would do!

    And I believe it. And if I believe it I don't have to think I need to find a problem that probably doesn't exist. It's just a LR thing.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all your thoughts, none seem to explain why the pedal effort is reduced on the second push ?


    How many feet or toes does it take to stop a D2 ?


    My P38 takes a large amount of effort to stop it.


    Ian
    Bittern Vic

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian4002000 View Post
    Thanks for all your thoughts, none seem to explain why the pedal effort is reduced on the second push ?


    How many feet or toes does it take to stop a D2 ?


    My P38 takes a large amount of effort to stop it.


    Ian
    Bittern Vic

    Didn't see on you asking why its reduced on the second push !!.
    I guess effort in this case must be relative, but do you mean effort or pedal travel?.
    To me, if a customer was saying the car was taking a large amount of effort to stop , I'd probably check vacuum/booster related , and / or seized calipers , cheap pads , blocked pipes etc .......after I'd driven it.

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