Have you checked your engine oil level?
If the injector sealing washers have/are failed you will be pushing combustion gases into the fuel rail section of the head. This is the 'engine side' of that strainer.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Today had to pull the starter motor out to do the solenoid (click click time) contacts worn half through, I must say I got lucky on the dreaded 15 mm nut only took about 1 minute to get off with 3/8 drive 150 mm wobble extension and 15mm short socket
Doing the fuel regulator as it is leaking everywhere ( what a s++t of a job. On one how to I read for it the bloke said only pull the strainer if you want to be pedantic I would suggest being pedantic as this is what mine looked like.
The thing that concerns me now is that that sludge is on the outside of the strainer and in the engine, I'm not sure on the direction of flow but looks like it goes from regulator block through strainer from inside to out so crap should be on inside of strainer
 Wizard
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SubscriberHave you checked your engine oil level?
If the injector sealing washers have/are failed you will be pushing combustion gases into the fuel rail section of the head. This is the 'engine side' of that strainer.
2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Jut checked and oil is sitting exactly on the full mark
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						All back together and so far no leaks (touch wood) I must say it went back together a lot easier than pulling it apart especially when I used a few extensions on the bottom bolt so I could torque it up from underneath in the wheel arch with the extensions going through the gap between the chassis and body which is how I will undo the bottom bolt next time as it makes it so much easier which now makes the hardest part of the whole job getting the quick release hose off the fuel cooler which will be top bolts removed and bottom 2 loosened the open gap up to get at hose
 Swaggie
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						SubscriberFYI my strainer was squeaky clean when I did my FPR at about 140KK.
So maybe yours has had washer problems in the past.
Interesting to see that and something to look for.
Regards Philip A
I did my FPR over the past week or so. I took the intake manifold off to get to it easy. My Strainer was spotless at 215,000km.
Then I just did my starter motor this morning as the FPR had leaked on to the Starter motor and caused dirty contacts.
Happy Days.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberDefinitely looks like combustion gases , have you got a noisey pump , hard starting, the inj washers may have been replaced already and this may be residual, Kelvo is partly correct about the combustion gases but if the washers are leaking it doesn't mean your oil level will change as the diesel is prevented from escaping into the sump by the o rings, in other words you can have combustion gases leaking into the fuel system via the copper injector washers , but not have diesel leaking into the sump via the injector o rings
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I was going to pull manifold off as I was going to clean it and the intercooler but the manifold gasket I bought a month ago had vanished somewhere ( will probably find it after I buy a new one).
After I worked out it was an almost straight line from the gap between the chassis and the body to the bottom fpr bolt it wasn't as bad a job as I was anticipating, made a couple of locating dowels out of 8mm bolts with threads the entire length for the top holes so when you slid the gasket and body onto the the threads provided enough grip that nothing slid off and then put bottom bolt in first (a lot easier to reach from the bottom) and did up finger tight just made it so much easier than when I undid bottom bolt from above.
The contacts look like there would be over 1/2 of the thickness gone so the diesel leaking on there may have caused the problem or just a case of coincidental timing.
I don't know the history of the car as was bought from hail auction and only came with a key and a receipt from Mannheim , no log book or any other paperwork so don't know if injectors have been a problem in the past . But has probably been maintained by owner going on a couple of the repairs on it eg zip ties in all bolt holes on xyz switch, egr bypass, lifting lug not put back on engine beside fpr, bike tubes and zipties holding all brake, ace and oil cooler pipes off anything they may rub against etc but seems to be in good nick for 230,000 kms
Fuel pump has a very slight whine if you are standing behind it at idle or really howls when doing the self prime thing after doing a filter but starts easy as just turn key and go no hesitation at all (other than the last week with starter motor)
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