Thread: Any success with Fuel Pressure Regulator rebuild kits?

Originally Posted by Davetd5

Has anyone had long term success with a diaphragm and seals rebuild kit, and can they be bought locally?
The time has come once more to address a leaking FPR. Last time I replaced just the diaphragm with one that someone on here recommended and its been fine for 2yrs and 38,000km but now its leaking badly out the vent hole. I was told to expect this problem every 80,000km.
First time it went 5 yrs ago I bought the whole unit for $325 but I can't get one locally under $395 now (I thought prices were supposed to go down as things got older!)

Anyone bought this kit from the UK?
Land Rover Discovery 2 Defender TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Rebuild KIT | eBay

Thanks Dave

Yep did mine about 12 months ago with the same kit and no probs

Remember to check the hose that gets brittle.

If you quote the part no to ULR in Malvern they should do a much better price for the whole unit.

Yep, watch that hose if you've got an EU3 build ... When I changed my FPR the hose was so stiff that when I flexed it a little it snapped like a pretzel !

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Originally Posted by simonmelb

Remember to check the hose that gets brittle.

If you quote the part no to ULR in Malvern they should do a much better price for the whole unit.

Thanks, the hose was replaced with a new spare two years ago last time I rebuilt the FPR

Is ULR in Victoria? We have a Malvern here in SA near where I work but I assume its not there!

I looked into it earlier this year as there is a demand for replacement regulators. A lot of them on the market are cheap Chinese produced regs.
Some are regs made for other vehicles and have difference pressure readings. Some sellers claim the extra pressure is better for the TD5 than the required specs, this is to sell the product only.

After some hunting I got onto a supply of the proper regs at a reasonable price, but dearer than the cheap Chinese ones being flogged around the net. I placed an order, but shortly was contacted by the supplier after finding out the end use of the product. I was told by the supplier not to bother as they will come back to bite me later as they will leak again, so that ended that idea. Better to to sell the assembly I was informed.
Some have been lucky with the cheap kits, and others have had leaks 12 months later. I suppose it's the luck of the draw with these things. The cheap price is tempting for some to take a punt as to the expense of a whole new fuel block assembly is a lot higher.
my 2 cents worth only,
Cheers,
Mario

Some have been lucky with the cheap kits, and others have had leaks 12 months later. I suppose it's the luck of the draw with these things. The cheap price is tempting for some to take a punt as to the expense of a whole new fuel block assembly is a lot higher.
my 2 cents worth only,
Cheers,
Mario[/QUOTE]

Thanks for your comments, Mario. I've sent you a PM asking for a quote for a FPR unit posted to 5157, so hopefully it got through!

I rekitted mine 2 years ago with a kit from UK ebay.
So far so good as mine turned out to be leaking from the gasket between FPR and head.
I think that a kit is fine if you have leaks from the gaskets or O rings, but if it is leaking form the drain hole for the FPR itself then you need a new FPR unit ( Ie the regulator itself at the least).

The body of the FPR is inert , in that it has no moving parts or function so you should be OK to just fit new components.
My FPR is the original going by the 2002 date on the hose which is still OK although by looks mine had been worked on at some stage.

In my case I removed the inlet manifold to get access, and although it adds another hour or so to the job IMHO it is the way to go as I found my leak was caused by the front bolt not being tight, along with gasket goo on the mating surface to head. It also enables you to transfer the crap out of the inlet manifold and EGR valve onto yourself by hitting with a Gurni.

Regards Philip A

Ive found over the years its one of them parts that using genuine is the only long term solution to ensure the job doesnt come back. Also labour times are less, unbolt one, bolt on the next.

When doing the job yourself just note which metal gasket it uses, I think from memory the later gasket will work on either (thats the one with the smaller holes in it). Also note there is a torque setting for the bolts so it shouldnt be just bolted on etc.

Regards
Daz