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the tow pro sets itself up and all you see on your dash is a control knob you can also set it up your self by holding the knob down for a few seconds and then turning it to what ever setting you want we sell heeps of them at workQuote:
Originally Posted by Tinggu
The Prodigy has storage for 3 different tows,
has a sort of hill start assist, it shows batt V, voltage from the stoplight and output current. it shows individual trailer warnings for loss of earth, excessive current, active short, and power loss
The prodigy can store 5 different trailers and then once setup you can use the boost function to get extra braking effect when going down steep descents or whenever you chose (3 levels of boost). As mentioned above it can fault find the system to an extent and you also have a manual lever that allows you to engage the trailer brakes without touching you brake pedal.
I'd be interested to know how the Tow-pro auto setting works out the max braking level so that the trailer doesn't lock up?
They both have other features that are the same.
Main diffs I see is prodigy can be setup for multiple trailers and Tow-pro can have a set braking level for off-road as it states on their site. Don't know that that is a big issue though.
The project has not physically progressed but I have found the Hayman Reese controller and aim to fit that. I believe the wiring is the same for most controllers: the nylon 4 wire connector, so having wired her up i should be able to change controllers if I want to upgrade to Prodigy later on.
I had a chat with the auto leccie y'day who said it's about a 2? hour job, with chasing the cables through taking most time: carpets up and plastic trim panels removed etc. I'm thinking of taking the previous advice of including a charging circuit for the caravan 12 v system and the a/leccie has a a nice fat cable that designed for brakes and charging, with the charging circuit via Anderson plug. My question is: best way to route the cable. Under the carpets or underneath? I'll be having a poke around after work this afternoon.
Auto leccie was also wondering if taking a feed off the brake light switch would interfere with the electronic sensors. I believe that is not the case....
If it was a $100 job I'd probably get the pros to do it. Not in a position to give them 2? hours work at present.
Thanks,
Pete
I'd be following the normal wiring path in the vehicle which is up the A pillar on rh side along the roofline and then down at the back.
Don't see any issue connecting into the cold side of brake switch, I have done and haven't seen any issues or odd behaviour.
Thanks. Had a quick look this afternoon to see where the rear and trailer lights are chased. But lost the loom very quickly. Up the pillar is a good place to look. Tomorrow. Thanks.
I used a TowPro
Made a plate to mount the main unit to, which bolts to the underside of the steering column behind the drop down access panel.
The remote dial/push button in the instrument binnacle ... Can reach it with an extended finger without taking my hands off the wheel.
Attachment 98175
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Looks very tidy. I'm using my trusty Hayman Reese unit and hoping to mount it as Pedro The Swifts photo of 12th Aug top of previous page. Where to mount it seems the only bit that's straightforward.
Great minds think alike, Kev. Got my Traxide controller in the same place as well!
Smart thinking kelvo ! I put my Traxide switch (in it's little supplied black box) above the top of the drop down panel LHS where there is a perfect little blank space of dash facia.
The prodigy mount that Pedro showed won't work for me as I have a mount for the hand held UHF there ... which will be replaced with an EMS2 in an A Pillar binnacle (when I get around to it!)
Always a challenge finding mounting spots in the D2 as it has such little free real estate for doing stuff like this ... and I can't live with stuff hanging in the leg space under the steering wheel.
