Thread: Immobiliser problems

Unlikely the locksmith had the right gear to connect as the OBD port does not use standard industry protocols to communicate.

Did the locksmith confirm that the key fob was transmitting an RF signal? Could be a faulty Fob and you need a new one. But new key will need programming.

I take it you had no spare key....(or are you having same problem with spare).

Hi, unfortunately these things can happen if the settings of the alarm/immobiliser are not verified in time, so:
1. no tester(not even T4) will work as long as it's immobilised
2. you are speaking only about inmobiliser but what about the alarm?..wasnt it screaming when you opened the door?...cos if not it means the alarm sound was disabled or set only for BBUS or alarm sounder without horns and they dont work then you'll not hear anything when you are trying to use the EKA code... at least check if the alarm sounder in the engine bay is not unplugged.... or if the alarm sounds normally but no joy with EKA can be a faulty door switch or BCU fault, (by the way don't you have a second key to rule out the at least the fob?... is the red led coming up on the fob when you press the unlock button?
3. being cheaper than other parts try to replace the roof receiver cos it's quite easy and only plug and play no need for programming
4. if the receiver replacement doesnt help and you are unable to use the EKA i'm affraid you'll have to replace the BCU but for that a dedicated tester is needed to make complex programming and sync' key fobs.
5. if you'll end up replaceing the BCU set teh alarm it on "always disarm with key"

Thanks for the input.

Locksmith confirmed he could see the 433MHz signal transmitting from the keyfob, but it is the only one I have.

Alarm triggers as soon as door is opened. Locksmith pulled the fuse for alarm and the horn whilst working on it.

EKA code doesn't beep to register when I rotate towards front of car to start sequence (clockwise), but if I continue to blindly input the code a few times it eventually starts giving a single beep from the horn on any input (assume an error code).

Is there any diagnostic equipment that I can use to try to determine if there is an issue with the BCU, despite the immobiliser being armed? or should I got straight to replacement of the RF receiver in the headlining?

And yes, if I ever get this fixed there will be no more immobiliser!

Re-read point 1 of my previous answer about the tester... and about not being able to insert EKA might be or the latch switch or the BCU which in that case could be the root of the non-working fob too

Would I be correct in assuming that switching out the BCU for one that is set to disable immobiliser with keylock would get me operational again, regardless of whether its an RF receiver or BCU problem?

I've seen an autobox TD5 BCU on fleabay for about $100. I assume it's just a case of removing the glovebox via screws or pushtabs and a Molex style connector to unplug and replug the unit? 30 min job?

BCU will need to be synced with the vehicle...

Consider to, the option the receiver in the head liner above the rear seats has failed.

Would I need a Nanocom to sync BCU to ECU? Are there any downsides to not syncing? I'm just trying to get the vehicle started at this stage.

sierrafery mentioned that it could be RF receiver, but I think I would happily forgo ongoing use of remote entry and just use the key to enter and lock the vehicle.

As Tombie said, you'll not be able to remobilise it without tester whatsoever so nanocom or similar is compulsory

to make it run again for sure regardless of the roof receiver you have to do the following things EXACTLY cos you risk to immobilise the replacement BCU too and you are back where you are now:

1. disconnect battery
2. replace BCU
3. reconnect battery
4. put ignition on pos II and leave it so 5 minutes
5. plug in tester and make the BCU learn the immobiliser code
6. disable alarm, immobiliser, passive innobiliser completely
7. set the BCU to fit your car's equipment, e'g. transmission type, suspension, ACE, etc
8. set your own EKA using small numbers to be easy to insert (don't exceed 5)

at this stage the car will be driveable but without any security and you can use the tester to investigate if the receiver and door switch are working (make an attempt to insert EKA to be sure)...then you can enable the alarm, immobiliser, synk the fob etc to bring it back to initial stage or set it how you want to be

it's important to understand exactly what's what ... also if the replacement BCU has a higher mileage stored you have to disable ONLY the odometer warning NOT sync the odometer to BCU cos you'll end up with that higher mileage on dash