Thread: ZF4HP22 do it yourself overhaul

Have now made up a tool for mounting trans to an engine stand

I'm not sure if you have done this before, but if not please see below.

Take note:

After you remove the valve body you will notice in the auto housing there are springs held in with circlips. Take notice of the size of the spring as you remove them as some are different size to the others. Once you have removed these 5 or 6 springs you will also need to remove the rubber seals at the bottom of each spring. (One of these rubber seals is different to the others.) If you don't it will be very very difficult to remove the internals of the auto. I removed them with a long 4mm or 5mm masonry drill bit. (obviously not with it attached to a drill)

Take note of any plastic internal parts, early or late autos had metal internals you can use. E.G the oil pickup is metal rather then plastic in either the early or late models. I can't remember which one.

One last thing - You're going to get auto trans fluid everywhere, it continues to leak everywhere for ages. Keep everything exceptionally clean, you'll also notice the internals look shadow chrome to being with, once clean you will realize they are in fact silver in colour.

Good luck!

I have done bigger transmissions in earthmoving equipment yep will be taking note of what came out of where i do tend to lay everything out in order and camera phones will come in handy have oil soak pads to keep the oil contained.

Blue dog towels and plenty of brake clean plus a parts washer also dishwasher is good for cleaning the housings

what is it doing wrong Stevo?
and do you expect the parts kit to fix it?

Lost all drive, was playing up when changing from second to third with a bit of slipping last few oil changes oil very black, no I do not think the kit alone will fix it I expect to be replace some components at the very least the input shaft maybe a sparg clutch.

Also a possibility the A clutch pack drum may need replacing as these have been known to fail around the snap ring groove.

Will know more once I strip it down and see what is stuffed still checking out part suppliers plenty over seas to choose from and finding more all the time.

Will take a note and list the suppliers when the rebuild completed.

mines not slipping,, just hard changes sometimes also a resistance to dropping out of OD with a resulting clunk.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

mines not slipping,, just hard changes sometimes also a resistance to dropping out of OD with a resulting clunk.

Regarding the hard changes & clunking - have you tried specialist transmission fluid modifiers?
I used to experience the occasional hard change, particularly when hot, however after using CEM AW10 Antiwear at the recommended rate the transmission functions perfectly without any hard shifts or clunking.

Also some electrical faults can give the same problems seem to remember reading some where about the pressure regulator causing harsh shifts on a BMW site which is controlled via a solenoid.

Have been reading so much from various sites like Volvo, jag and BMW sites the later seems to be more likely to have a go themselves a bit like us Landy owners, it is getting to the stage of info overload and my brain cell may start dumping critical stuff like how to breath, open a beer bottle etc etc.