Think 2 hole is the thinnest , so I would stay with that
Check out the sealant section
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...d-lockers.html
I have just received all my parts to replace the head with an AMC head.
The original head gasket thickness was a 2 hole and the new gasket is a 3 hole. After reading the workshop manual it states to use the same thickness as original. Will I get away with this one or should I find a 2 hole.
My other question: can someone suggest what sealant would be good for the cam box to head.
Cheers
Devo
Think 2 hole is the thinnest , so I would stay with that
Check out the sealant section
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...d-lockers.html
A lot of people go with the 3 hole gasket as it's the thickest(by not much).
This allows for maximising the valve-piston clearance after any machining.
Ideally you should measure the piston protrusion from the block and order to suit.
Real world, fit the 3 hole as lots have done who have not had an issue in doing so.
I have not seen that link before but it has some good information.
Hi Devo,
The gaskets go down to 0 holes as the thinnest, never seen one never fitted one. The heads I have done I have always fitted the three hole as mentioned above. You can do the maths and work out the exact right one and order it if you so desire.
I keep a three hole in the shed just in case, also I have found the Elring gasket to be the best.
Cheers Marty
when i pulled the cambox of the head, (my old one) there was no sealant visible & it didn't leak.
However when i put the cambox on the new head I used a very slight smear of loctite silicone.
If you have a close look at the cam box, you will see open oil galleries running on the cambox where it mates with the head.
you dont want silicone squishing into them when you torque down the cambox!!
89 RRC
92 RRC Sherwood
I use a 1" foam rubber paint trimming roller, just roll it on sealant and apply. It gives a very very fine even layer.
Nick
Hi RoverV8,
I use Toyota black sealent. have used Hylomar in the past neither with any problem. I now prefer the Toyota black (I know, I know) , not cheap but it works. The grooves on the outer most "ring" are oil drain grooves not supply grooves so a very small amount of sealant "squishing" into the groove won't be a problem, my experience anyway. Do use the sealant sparingly though, I like the idea of the paint roller.
Chers Marty.
Last edited by Nomad9; 11th November 2015 at 10:18 AM. Reason: spelling
When I rebuilt TD5 EURO 3 I ordered a 1 hole gasket to match the one that came out.
Afterwards i realized i needed to have the block and the head machined slightly. (Can't remember the measurements)
Even after machining both the block and the head the gasket was perfect according to RAVE specs on the minimum piston clearances.
I think I got lucky. Car has done approx. 20,000 kms since the rebuild.
I used the sealant that come with everything else I ordered from Turners in the UK. Turner Engineering STC 4600 Hylomar 3400 Sealant
TD5 engine parts, short engine, TD5 cylinder heads, pistons, bearings
Hi Graeme,
I'll go a X 2 on Turner Engineering in the UK, a very competent team. The only thing is the wait for the parts. They sent me a rebuild kit for a 300TDI engine which included pistons, mains, big ends, rings, oil pump, water pump, full set of hoses full gasket kit and head bolts, the whole lot cheaper than local to me in WA and that included postage and packaging in a very neat wooden crate. I did have to wait seven working days for the parts, gave me plenty of time to clean everything up.
Watch the gst, if you order parts more than $1000 you have to pay GST, I got caught and dealing with that was a bit painful and took a bit more time.
Cheers Marty
Well it took a while to do the head as I shopped for the cheapest prices I could find and now I have a brand new AMC head on and the all up cost of the job was $3,567. Although I was off the road for ages For me it was worth it in the long run.
All is good now.
Thanks to all those who gave me clues.
Cheers
Devo
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