Not good,
but a known fault,,
EVERYBODY should check their Trans hoses.
Any hydraulic place should be able to do the repairs,,
will the box recover?
usually yes,, but the average has gone down of late![]()
Touring NSW and the ATFDumped just S of Forster. Bloody ripper RACV got us and the van towed to town, is and the van in a van park and the cat at an automatic transmission place. The blow was under the bonnet so I'm guessing it's a line on the cooler. Any idea how big a job, how many$$$?
Rig had been travelling so well. ......
I'm struggling to do this on my iPhone, just hope I'll be able to get back to check for any response. If I vanish, my apologies- will try
Thanks folks,
Pete
Not good,
but a known fault,,
EVERYBODY should check their Trans hoses.
Any hydraulic place should be able to do the repairs,,
will the box recover?
usually yes,, but the average has gone down of late![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
How does one "check" the hoses? They didn't leak. New to all this but if it's not leaking what is criteria for "checking"?
If this a known fault is there an aftermarket, improved solution?
Thanks,
Pete
During service the trick is to see if you can move or rotate the swaged part where the rubber hose is clamped to the steel line. If you can then best order a set of hoses. We always use genuine lr ones.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
The passengers side {outlet} seems to give more problem than the drivers {inlet} side? Jc may correct me on thatHere is what I did when I found mine about to part company, http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ssume-anything
I have had new hose and extra cooler to go on but not got around to it yet. This is now 30k kms along and still holding well, I just check it every so often.
Cheers Scott
The passenger side connection into the cooler is from transmission outlet which is the hotter pipe so the rubber hose gets cooked more often which hardens it up mine were very loose on the hose crimp but after 16 years it was expected and both pipes replaced after trans overhaul.
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
All fixed now. We got our car back end of play y'day and all seems well. Hoping it will stay that way. Yes, it was the outlet hose. Replaced with hose clamps rather than swags fitting. Tranny serviced with new filter, even though it was new at start of this trip 2000km was black and slimey. Oil was not burned. Refilled with synthetic Max Life ATF rather than Dex III. $370. RACV looked after us real well with tows, accommodation, taxi fares and NRMA equally good. Very grateful to all including you mob who certainly know your stuff. Thanks guys,Pete and Kaye
When mine went I paid about $450 to replace the line (genuine parts) by a LR specialist. ATF filled but didn't do the filter as I had done it not too long ago. Sounds like you got a good price.
Just an update on the "failure to proceed" at Forster. Local trans shop did the job for $370 including flush and service - replaced the filter I had just put on and we completed our journey with no further mishap. They reckoned no damage and it seems to be so. After pulling the van 5,300 km the engine oil is dark honey coloured which I am amazed at. First diesel I've had that does not run on black oil. The only odd behaviour is that she has failed to start on a couple of occasions but then mysteriously came good for no apparent reason. The second time I just waited and did nothing.
Since getting home I've been repairing every other mechanical thing that I own that have all decided to break down and have not yet had a play with my shiny new Nanocom. Is there a standard "start here" procedure to have a look around the system?
Thanks,
Pete
Was there a clicking sound when you tried to start. If so, the solenoid contacts need replacing. Common issue; except for undoing the rear bolt on the starter easy to fix. 15 minute job once the starter is out.
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