Thread: 04 TD5 HSE power window fuse blowing

A loose harness wouldn't blow a fuse... that F34 is a feed which goes into the BCU for windows operation, explain better this statement of your's cos it's important

Originally Posted by land864

...Just after 40 minutes of driving they wouldn't work and the fuse was blowing.

so do you actually observe the fuse blowing while you try to operate the windows?, or you try to operate the windows they wouldn't work then you see that the fuse is blown?... does it happen for both sides?

Ok chaps

We are in the thick of testing as we correspond

New fuse in

Ignition on just before running

Left hand window up/down/up /down / up down ad infinitum and no blown fuse

Right hand window up/down etc etc etc just as left window and no blown fuse.

Leave windows up and ignition on but not running, stand next to vehicle and rock the bejesus out of it and zap , there goes the fuse, without touching the switches.

So , that means the power feed for the window motors is touching the body metal or door metal somewhere .

Now for the good bit. WHERE !!!!

Having a look and poke around behind the lower fascia under the glovebox and cant see any loose wires.

Do we know which bcd is for the windows.

There are 2 wires running up to what I think is the window motor. Blue/green and pink/green?

Am trying to trace where they go when inside

For what you describe the problem is with the wiring between the fusebox and BCU or at the fusebox more likely, te circuit has no additional plugs, it's hardwired, so to rule this out you need to check RAVE - Electrical library - connector views:
1. unplug C0664 from BCU and make the test again... this connector contains the feed from F34 and the outputs for window motors so the windows will not work with this connector unplugged but if the fuse blows we are on the right track
2. if you want to trace the wire it's between C0583 pin 2(on the back of the fusebox) and C0664 pin 7 on the side of the BCU...it's brown/orange thicker wire(3.0 gauge)

Well the scary thing is , it's fixed but I'm not sure how.

Let's see how it goes over the next few days

Things I did were;

1. Access all ECU and relays behind the glove box and lower kick panel and push home every plug.
2. Refit the rubber grommet through the A pillar where the wiring comes from the door. Checked for any broken wiring but didn't find any in that area.
3. Jiggled bundles of wiring behind and under glovebox and pulled all clear of any body.
4. Removed both door trims and pushed home wiring plugs to window regulators.
5. Unkinked driver door wiring feeding regulator. Split the insulation and checked but no broken wiring.