Thread: Auto Knackered?

I've recently replaced my transmission with an Ashcroft recon one and an uprated torque converter.
I had a bunch of different things that were wrong on the old box and among the driving features was this same lag at take off. Very noticeable, it would then pull hard after about 1800 or 2000. I guessed it was about 3 seconds from foot to 100% throttle to the car actually taking me seriously.
Now, with the new box and TQ this hasn't gone away. In fact the new TQ makes it much easier to see (maybe the times have come down to the 3 seconds and it was longer before, I couldn't be sure).
A stall test on the old box showed the revs go virtually straight up to 2900.
A stall test on the new one shows: 1500 for about a second then climbs to 2100. It's not easy to see but I captured this same behaviour on nanocom and you can see the pause.

This leads me to believe it's not the gearbox or TQ.

Everything else is reading OK, MAF readings look OK, I think turbo looks OK (at the top end) and once over 2000 the engine pulls hard, I really don't think the engine is down on power overall, we can pull good speeds on the flat and uphill.
AAP and MAP cleaned not a long time ago, IAT cleaned. FPR replaced because leaking.
IC was cleaned not too long ago as well.
Loom was checked for oil and clean

My current plan is:
- check waste gate rod
- remove CAT and middle box; this is to see if it's turbo spool up or collapsed cat
- new map from TD5 Inside; see if the fuelling on the 2004 is conservative down low, off boost
- new IC hoses

If it hasn't been sorted by that point I'm going to decide between starting to replace some fuel items, pump and MAF probably.
If that fails then I'll look at TD5Inside turbo option.
If still no joy I guess I'll start looking at the injectors, its 10 years old, but only 190k km, so I wouldn't expect them to need replacing or servicing, but who knows what crap has been pushed through them.

Anyway, my thoughts are that the box is likely not the cause.

Cheers Steve,
I have asked around variously over the last few years and no one has had or heard of a problem similar to mine...except you!

That's kinda good coz someone else knows about it!
Kinda bad coz it is doing my head in and probably yours.

I may just investigate a bit further before shelling out on a new trans.

Until last weekend, I was almost at the same point as yourself. I don't have a cat (99 model) but about to remove centre muffler. I also replaced the IC about 2yr ago for a D2A and discovered my old one was actually sloshing with oil. I am going to pull my current IC and clean it as well as fit a Provent at some stage.

I have silicon IC pipes and replaced the injector loom about 5 year ago.

I also suspect the waste gate rod but how does one verify it?
I also am looking at a chip.

Perplexing and annoying.

Keep in touch.

Ralph

I've seen a few posts about the same lag off the line, a lot of time the suggestions have been (and certainly a few solutions) to replace the MAF.
I've tried driving with the MAF disconnected to see if that was any different, but I couldn't tell, having said that it was with the old box which was buggered.

I've attached a capture with the new box, the start is normal driving, you can see the lag on the take offs. The final bit is a stall test on the driveway.
The resolution of 1 second makes it hard to see clearly, but if you squint just right you can see the pause and the issue.

You may find this good reference material to compare if you can do a capture on yours.

Jan 4th Engine record with stall test.xlsx

What boost are you measuring? This sounds like a 1 Bar / 15 psi limit.

Have you cleaned your:
MAP/IAT sensor? - Intake manifold.
AAP sensor? - Airbox
MAF? - Between air box and turbo.

You can disconnect your MAF to test it, if it is the MAF, the fault should go away. If you replaced it with a cheap one last tome, don't rule it out.

Normally laggy throttle is a result of a failed MAF. But limited revs is a result of a failed MAP/IAT sensor.

The AAP sensor and the MAP/IAT sensor work together to work out the boost pressure. If either one of these has failed you can get limited boost.

The waste gate modulator can also be bypassed with vac/boost hose and electrically disconnected. This will also isolate the modulator if it is faulty.

You really need to get your Nanocom repaired or borrow one to continue fault finding correctly. An auto is expensive and a huge jump on assumption.

Yes indeed!
Fix nanocom then check, clean and recheck stuff.

Interestingly, I did a stall test this arvo. It had the lag!
I pressed the pedal, revs rose to about 1800 -1900, stayed there for 1-2 seconds then kicked nicely to 2800.
I am going back to square one and looking for some obvious answers. Sensors, IC, wastegate etc.

That said, tomoz I'll sample my auto fluid to see if there is any burn smell or obvious nasties. I'm still concerned about the strange changes but one thing at a time.

Cheers
Ralph

Have you tried a simple adaptive reset on the Trans with Nano or a Hawekeye.
It restores it to factory default. Then the trans ECU will learn again as you driver.
Usually a good idea to do one after fiddling and replacing parts.
Cheers, Mario

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Have you tried a simple adaptive reset on the Trans with Nano or a Hawekeye.
It restores it to factory default. Then the trans ECU will learn again as you driver.
Usually a good idea to do one after fiddling and replacing parts.
Cheers, Mario

This is a good idea. I wonder if simply activating the sports mode will override the adaptive auto settings, thus achieving the same result?

Will do this once I fix my nano!
Still tracking down BBS Guy lol regards cracked screen.

In the next few days I intend to clean MAF, replace waste gate modulator hoses and remove turbo heat shield to inspect waste gate bits.

Cheers
Ralph