Thread: STEERING SHAKE

Originally Posted by Judo

Maybe someone can educate me on the D2... What is the swivel pin set-up? How does it work compared to a D1? If this was a D1 I would be strongly suggesting swivel pin preload is too loose.

Has this problem only occurred since having new gear fitted, like CV's? Maybe somethings not properly installed/torqued.

Yep if it was a d1 , rrc , swivel hub preload ( or lack of) is usually the culprit, d2's have upper and lower ball joints which the op has said have been replaced.
If there is a slight dynamic balance issue it mightn't be noticeable until generating the side forces involved when turning and hitting a bump , I'm not saying this is definate , its just something that can be done to see if it changes the behavior, if the lift is much above a genuine 2inch
then the panhard rod will cause the car to crab changing the steering geometry which can also cause this, has it had the problem since lifted or after anything was changed?

Cheers. It certainly seemed more noticeable after the heavy duty adjustable panhard rod was installed. The lift caused sideways movement of the suspension such that the driver side spring would just touch the chassis rail and leave paint on compression off road. We adjusted the new rod so that there is the same distance between the spring to chassis on each side. It doesnt hit on either side offroad now.

Cheers

Thanks, I think I get it now - Knuckle with ball joints. My only suggestion is to double check everything has been correctly torqued up. Sounds like a slightly loose bush or ball joint. Good luck.

Tyres at 32psi sounds OK. Mines a 2a and the front rec' is 30psi ... I find 32-33psi is about right. Tyres are 31" as well. If run them any higher I get shake as well when cornering over uneven surfaces at speed. Installer told me to run them at 40psi or better .... He had them at 45psi and it shook the wheel like crazy cornering over rough surfaces at speed ... Back to 32 and no issues ... And the ride is way better.

Thanks mate. Are you tyres LT's....they are lot less absorbant with such a stiff sidewall and carcass generally...i also wonder if LT's should in theory have more air in them to prevent overheat (i have heard that but don't understand the reason).

Cheers

Yep, LT's ... D697's 265/70*16

That said, I noticed the same issues when I had the older tyres on it ... Cooper S/T 255/70*16 ... and they weren't LT's, just passenger rated construction with light sidewalls (and they lasted for 108,000km). The S/T's were rated at 36psi MAX and I ran them 32/38psi ... but they were replaced with the D697's when we purchased the Kamper (1x delaminated a week before we picked up the Kamper, and the spare went egg shaped).

I found my ideal 32-33psi for the front using the 4psi rule. The rears are spot on at 38psi ... or 42-44psi when towing the Kamper (200kg ball weight), and I might push the fronts to 34psi when the Kampers hitched (but the 200kg ball weight lifts the front of the disco a little, but the there's usually a bit of extra weight packed in between the front & rear wheels on the floor - fuel & water).

I've only had the D697's on for about 6000km, nearly all of it towing the Kamper, and they appear to be wearing evenly. I had the same tyres fitted to my D-Max by the same fitter, and he insisted they be run above 40psi due to the weight of the diesel engine up front ... rides like a sulky!! ... and you can see where the edges (inner and outer) of the tyre are not making contact with the road (no wear). I need to lower the pressures on these.

Does the problem occur if you lower the pressure from where they are now ?? If yes, then it's time to look further.

Thanks mate. I will drop the Maxxis to 26 unladen and see what happens to the feedback on corner bumps. She feels tight as a fishes bottom (and would want to given the suspension maintenance). Cheers

I reckon 26 is unsustainable,,