Thread: I am adding CDL to my 2002. ***** of a job

Failing finding wires in the loom, the wiring diagram says that there should be wires in header C0761 which is at the back of the console.

The feed from CDL switch should be terminal 1 and 2 and 3 should be bridged and go to the SLABS.

It should earth at C0552 which is also at the back of the console.

We shall see.
Regards Philip A

you should find the black/blue wire at C0681-7 it's easy to reach under the console(before header 0761 which is embeded in th loom) and connect one side of the switch to that and the other to any earth, measure both terminals of the switch against it's body cos on some of them one terminal has continuity with the body to be earthed via fixing.

Yes I have fond C0681 thanks.
Seeing 681 is male , is it the SLABs side of the connector?
It would be easy just to cut the wires and join the switch wire rather than tap into the wire .
regards Philip A

There should be that BU wire "free" in it cos the side which goes to the CDL switch is missing from factory so join that BU wire as you feel simpler cos from there it goes as in the diagram

Thanks mate.
I have now finished fitting the CDL and gone for a test drive and all works OK. To be sure I jacked up a front wheel and put the transfer in neutral and tested whether I could turn the wheel with the CDL locked and unlocked. No when locked and yes when unlocked.

Only outstanding item is the switch. I will get a more expensive one than the AUD10 one I bought from UK.

Its a bugger to screw it in with wires attached and If you push the blade connectors on later , the terminals break off and cannot be successfully soldered on.
I noticed some available with a pigtail which look like the hi lo switch.
So more contortions. I have bought a small press button on/off switch which I plan to fit into the power window panel.

Regards Philip A
BTW I was very happy to see or not see any brass swarf in the cavity in the nose which should mean my diff shims are still in good condition. The CDL nose I bought had a LOT of swarf in there as that is what caused the PO to change it.

Well I had another go today as I was worried that I had half screwed out the dud CDL switch and it could unscrew fully.
Anyway I couldn't get to it from underneath, so went through the whole procedure of pulling out the floor etc including drilling out the rivets once again.
So I had another go at the CDL switch, in that I cleaned up the terminals and resoldered them, and then I potted them in araldite, and it works. I placed pigtails on the terminals and found a 2 way connector in my bits of wire box. I made up a lock nut by cutting down a nylock nut that I had with the right thread.
I then got the right adjustment by screwing a bit, check with multimeter etc.

I placed a switch in the power window switch panel and joined into C0681. you can cut and join directly to the black blue wire at 681 as there is no matching terminal.

Found an earth and bobs your uncle.
While still reasonable enthusiastic I placed a double USB at the back of the console next to the ashtray and connected it to the cig lighter wiring.
The diff lock light comes on so all looks OK.

Regards Philip A

How much do you charge by the hour Phillip?

PhilipA, its always a nice useful addition adding a CDL (centre diff lock) to a model that is lacking one...

Just to clarify for others that might want to tackle this job...

*Did you replace the centre diff housing while leaving the transfer case in situ and leaving the centre diff itself in place, if so, thats a great effort (I have no doubt this is do-able but have found over the years from a repairers point of view its a lot quicker for me to drop the transfer case out as a complete unit and fit the new housing on the bench. But I'm generally rebuilding the transfer case at the same time.)

*On the 2002 model as PhillipA has, he had to add the parts needed to lock the centre diff as well as adding the two way shifter and cables to allow hi-low and diff lock to unlock. He would have confirmed this by noting on top of the centre diff housing that there was no threaded pin.

*If you have a early model, it should have the pin, so its only the expensive two way shifter kit that is needed.

*While not criticism, I suspect the copper side shims had well worn and disappeared many km's ago, its a Disco 2 thing. There are also two selective thrusts on each side of the centre diff that wear out.

*Checking the pre-load (the wear) of the centre diff, with both prop shafts dropped and the centre diff in the unlock position (if available, otherwise it will be unlocked), hold each of the output flanges on both ends of the transfer case and turn them by hand in opposite directions. If they basically spin freely (as in there is no pre-load, no resistance) the copper side shims and selective thrusts have worn out.

Regards
Daz