What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by whitey56

I am assuming a wet test is squirting oil onto the rings here, if it is i'm not sure how any mechanic can be sure the rings get oiled unless he fills the swirl cavity full with oil then more oil to flood the rings over the piston crown.
It's unlikely the oil will catch on fire as all the injectors will be removed so no compression and diesel is a fine spray when injected unlike the oil.

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The only way to do a compression test on a TD5 is via the pre heaters. The injectors remain in place and the test can only be done on four cylinders. I am referring to a warning I read when looking up the wet test procedure which read as follows:

"Please take note that you never do a wet test with a compression ignition engine, i.e. diesel engine, because the additional oil may ignite on compression!" Also if you were to fill the swirl pots with oil there would also be risks of hydraulic damage. Nick

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Originally Posted by Pippin

The only way to do a compression test on a TD5 is via the pre heaters. The injectors remain in place and the test can only be done on four cylinders. I am referring to a warning I read when looking up the wet test procedure which read as follows:

"Please take note that you never do a wet test with a compression ignition engine, i.e. diesel engine, because the additional oil may ignite on compression!" Also if you were to fill the swirl pots with oil there would also be risks of hydraulic damage. Nick

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You can do a comp test on a TD5 via the injector ports, but a special tool is required.

Sykes-Pickavant

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Originally Posted by johntins

You can do a comp test on a TD5 via the injector ports, but a special tool is required.

Sykes-Pickavant

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Do you think that is what was done, I doubt it. What this mechanic says I am very dubious about.

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Originally Posted by Pippin

Do you think that is what was done, I doubt it. What this mechanic says I am very dubious about.

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No, no, not at all. From what I've been reading I wouldn't believe a word the guy said. I've been trying to go back over the various posts trying to make sense of any of this.

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Originally Posted by Cambeaner

so turns out there was a bit of miscommunication, the reason he said no honing was due to the cost of sourcing oversize pistons exceeding the cost of re-sleeving.

he says he's performed a wet test on the compression which confirms worn bores.

here's his description of the motor he'd like to fit;

MOTOR S/H – 212,356km
We have removed head inspected bores (still have honing marks)
Service head and replaced with new gasket and head bolts
Warranty – 6 months
Only short motor replaced using all your existing add ons
Use front cover and new bearing from existing motor


total will be $3795 if I go ahead with it,

he sounds ok now but I'm still dirty on him for going ahead with the big end bearings when there was a chance it wouldn't work.
I would have abandoned it and saved $5795 for the next car.

huge thanks to Discorevy and everyone else for your input been extremely helpful, love this forum!

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honestly i think he is tacking you for a ride.
but it would still have to be cheaper to slip the pistons out throw a set of rings on them (as the old ones would of lost tension by now) a new set of big ends and a dunnie brush hone and freshen the head up then fitting a 2nd hand engine, it would also give you a fresher engine then the 2nd hand engine, or fit new std size pistons and rings to your current engine.

btw once a engine is broken in if you can see the hone marks then it was honed with too coarse of a hone and will be causing blow by and loss of compression,
i have pulled diesels down with 1.5million on the engine that dident blow smoke or breath hard it was just preventative maintenance and the bore's look like chrome where the rings run a sister engine they ran to 3 million km's before they did the same because they got nervious on the rod bolts not cause it used oil or breathed hard

but at the end of the day low compression on a diesel wont make it stall or have low power to the point it stalls if its not breathing hard and blowing blue smoke,
just to give you an idea at work we have an old case backhoe this thing i can turn over at the crank by hand thats how low the compression is it needs aerostart to start it but once fired it runs fine and doesent even blow blue smoke.

it will be something electrical that has failed and or fails when it gets hot or the cam timing is up the creak etc or he hasent check clearance's on the new bearings and they are grabbing but that is more unlikly as it would be pretty sick by now

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Originally Posted by lyonsy

honestly i think he is tacking you for a ride.

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So do I. I just went back over the various posts here and on the other thread and from what I gather, the car came back from having the bottom end rebuilt, was driving fine and then just stopped, and this is somehow caused by worn bores? The car apparently blew no smoke and performed ok prior to the "alleged" timing chain failure. So, why did the car suddenly lose compression sufficiently to cause it to simply stop? Did the bores suddenly just wear out?
Allegedly the comp figures are around 300. Not great if true ( 400 would be better it seems ) but not bad enough to cause sudden failure to proceed, nor sudden rough running.
I would hazard a guess that this guy has stuffed up the timing chain refit and doesn't want to wear the cost. I would also wonder why he went to the trouble of replacing bearings etc. without first determining the condition of the rest of the engine.

In short, I simply don't believe him, if the OP is reporting this accurately. What is the local equivalent to our VCAT, or Consumer Affairs, as that would be my next port of call, and I would make a point of telling him that I was doing so. I have learnt a lot over the saga of my auto, and I would not hesitate. These clowns have insurance against claims like these.

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Originally Posted by johntins

So do I. I just went back over the various posts here and on the other thread and from what I gather, the car came back from having the bottom end rebuilt, was driving fine and then just stopped, and this is somehow caused by worn bores? The car apparently blew no smoke and performed ok prior to the "alleged" timing chain failure. So, why did the car suddenly lose compression sufficiently to cause it to simply stop? Did the bores suddenly just wear out?
Allegedly the comp figures are around 300. Not great if true ( 400 would be better it seems ) but not bad enough to cause sudden failure to proceed, nor sudden rough running.
I would hazard a guess that this guy has stuffed up the timing chain refit and doesn't want to wear the cost. I would also wonder why he went to the trouble of replacing bearings etc. without first determining the condition of the rest of the engine.

In short, I simply don't believe him, if the OP is reporting this accurately. What is the local equivalent to our VCAT, or Consumer Affairs, as that would be my next port of call, and I would make a point of telling him that I was doing so. I have learnt a lot over the saga of my auto, and I would not hesitate. These clowns have insurance against claims like these.

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wow thanks guys this is all news to me. maybe i should break it down so we can get the full picture, I'll do that in the other thread and post the link here when done, then if you guys can let me know what you think that would be great. thanks so much.

here we go;

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...ml#post2707264

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Originally Posted by Disco-tastic

I have akebonos and after about 5000km i noticed they were a dull grey (not that they were that shiny to start with). Ran my finger on the wheel and it turns out the akebonos still make dust but its not as heavy and its grey instead of black. Wheels looked much better after a clean.

If the dust came from somewhere else it would have been over the car too but i only found it on the wheels.

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I've had them on my wifes car for about 50,000km. Volvo xc60. She got 40K out of the original volvo pads which were worst than the LR ones for black dust. these seem to still be going strong. Its a turbo T6 and she is a wannabe rally driver, so they get a workout.

Yeh there is a light dust that comes off them. But it is quite minor. You still need to clean the wheels, but I've never had her wheels go anywhere near black. Pads and discs seem to be holding up pretty well.

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Originally Posted by clintooo

I've had them on my wifes car for about 50,000km. Volvo xc60. She got 40K out of the original volvo pads which were worst than the LR ones for black dust. these seem to still be going strong. Its a turbo T6 and she is a wannabe rally driver, so they get a workout.

Yeh there is a light dust that comes off them. But it is quite minor. You still need to clean the wheels, but I've never had her wheels go anywhere near black. Pads and discs seem to be holding up pretty well.

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Yeah sorry forgot to mention the greey dust is still waaaaay better than standard pads. Way less of it too.