Today the dashpod decided to fall off. Guess I'll have to fix that one.....
Cheers,
Jason.
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Today the dashpod decided to fall off. Guess I'll have to fix that one.....
Cheers,
Jason.
Today's excitement was to program a pair of D2 keys using a borrowed Hawkeye (thanks Mario :) )
An interesting device the Hawkeye, doesn't appear to come with any instructions and the downloadable 'manual' is so totally useless I wonder why it was written in the first place :(
Battling on I discovered that the D2 key/fob is actually called a Plip, now I've got no idea whether this is an anagram for something or is an actual secret sort of Land Rover word known only to a select few but there it is, a D2 key is called a Plip. [bigsmile1]
Attachment 130448
Youtube and AULRO contain an absolute encyclopedia of information about how to program D2 keys with a Nanocom and how to determine the dual 15/16 character codes required when using 2nd hand keys but sadly bugger all on programming new keys, sorry, Plips using a Hawkeye even with the provided codes.
Ultimately I came up with the following 'guide' using FAQ's from, http://www.aylmermotors.com/modules/Sections/download/HawkeyeQuestionsAnswers-1461061382.pdf
and info gleaned from old AULRO and other posts.
It's important to note that you will need your new Plip's as well as your existing Plips when you start programming as Hawkeye needs to recognise both. Hawkeye doesn't alter anything or need any info inputted for the existing Plip's but needs to know they are there. I assume (though could be wrong) that an existing Plip not offered up as a potential sacrifice to Hawkeye when programming the new Plip(s) could indeed be killed off and thus rendered useless otherwise. [bigsad]
You must have the two 15/16 character codes for each new plip before they can be programmed to your vehicle. The accompanying tag on my new Plips (see photo) had this info. [bigsmile1]
From here it's pretty smooth sailing. Plug in Hawkeye and follow it's instructions navigating to Security - Transmitters and when it says 'operate first plip' press the big 'Land Rover' button on the plip and note that the led lights on the plip to confirm that it transmits. Hawkeye will recognise existing plips and not expect any input for them but will require two character codes to be entered for the new/replacement plips. On my new plips the first code was 16 characters plus leading and trailing asterisks, for a total of 18 characters which must also be entered. The second code string was 15 characters plus leading and trailing asterisks for a total of 17 characters.
Note. some of these characters are hexidecimal ie. 0 (zero) to F, some are alphabetical ie. A to Z and some are characters notably *. Be careful here as both 0 (zero) and O (as in orange) are used. Keep punching away on the up button as you scroll through you'll finally get to the character you need [bigsmile1], I found that you couldn't back up using the down key if you passed the required character but had to 'complete the circuit' and come around again. Hawkeye is smart enough to know if it's looking for a number, letter or symbol so it doesn't take you through all unnecessary options to input the correct character. [bigsmile1] Hawkeye will give you ample chances to alter incorrect entry's and will also ask if the plip is SLS. I assume from this that a vehicle fitted with SLS (self leveling suspension) can have a plip with additional functionality. As my vehicle doesn't have SLS I answered no to this question.
Anyway it all worked out OK and I now have three operational plips for my D2. [bigsmile]
Now to see if I can determine the EAK or whatever 'key in door' code for the vehicle............................. [bigsmile1]
Deano :)
There is this tuteQuote:
Originally Posted by Jason789
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...0=#post2384553
sadly the photo's are not there.
I have this kit as an alternative product for the fix. I have used it for heaps of repairs to plastic bits and had it for years. I actually used it to bond an ABS gauge pod to my pillar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
PlastiFix Kits
URETHANE SUPPLY COMPANY PLASTIFIX KIT | eBay
Attachment 130453
Last week’s post re the plastic repair to radiator side tank spigot to overflow pipe .... it was fixed and ran to pressure in the shop but I then decided to put in a new tank as I just didn’t want the trouble of some fun in the sand at Moreton Island translating to me checking water levels every 10 minutes.
So new tank in in 2 hours while engine hot and ready to go. Thursday morning at about 7:00 am at a mates place on way to the 8:00am Micat ferry it blew the left side transmission cooler junction off at the cooler. My cleaning and movement to get the radiator out and in must have loosened what normally can’t be pulled off no matter how hard you try. So, no torx socket, no fluid and no filler pipe but 6 people on board and 5 kayaks on the roof I begged at local fuel station workshop for some fluid and tools. 30 minutes later I had it refilled, and running (not degreased). Tried to get to ferry but ended up not making it, getting on the noon ferry and degreasing the engine and having coffee while waiting.
Did want to push car after that, just in case. Anyone got advice on any issues I may have created for myself putting Dexron III into a transmission already filled with Penrite multi-vehicle fluid? I’m about due for a filter and fluid change anyway but worried now I may have caused issues with fluid compatibility. It probably only drove less than 80km in total on the mix.
Oh and I now have a spare radiator with a repaired and not leaking overflow spigot I guess! At least the aircon is nice and cold again...
Deano! PM sent.... [bigwhistle]
:soapbox:pos just did headgasket:bat:
time for headgasket in a bottle and trade it i think
****.Quote:
Originally Posted by lyonsy
That sucks......
I feel your pain Mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by lyonsy
Mines in at Davis Performance to get some leaks unleaked, new inhibitor and repair a split ACE boot.
