What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by Lemo

Hi John,

Just out of interest did the new valve block come with the hose locking nuts attached/screwed in??
Like the ones on new air bags??

Just a thought did you test with soapy spray around these connections?

Cheers Lemo

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Initially I thought it was the connections that screw into the valve block...not so lucky. Then I pulled the valve block apart & noticed the main seal and the rubber stopper were perishing. In fact pulling it apart made things worse!

Definitely wasn't the airbags. I've plumbed in cut off taps with car valves. To test the bags I turned off the taps & the rear end stayed up.

New valve block came with push in fittings like my new conti air bags have. All I had to do was cut off the brass screw in connections and push the 3 air lines in. Super easy.

I think I've achieved ninja status for how quick I can pull the compressor box out!

Obviously yes I did spray soapy water everywhere

Picked up Chaffy on Friday night after been off the road for a while having some shiny new paint a few dents taken out, new trim fittings, new front windscreen, new HD gearbox and transfer with ATB fitted and some other maintanence and eserivce items done.

my son was is very relieved as he now gets back my other car (my not so little Kia Sportage)[wink11].

first shower of rain experienced on Saturday, of course windscreen leaks like a sieve so back to Windscreens OBRIEN for warranty (son having the Sporty back is short lived) next week when I get back into Darwin.
and of course one of the new roof trim pieces was the wrong one so another two week wait for the new one to come up [bighmmm].

will need to drop the very expensive synthetic oils in a couple of weeks form the gearbox and transfer which should be aroundd 1000-1200"kmracked up, and fill with expensive sinthetic oils new to get rid of any brass swaff from the drivetrain as it settles in. Gearbox shift is quite firm and hopefully will start to free up as we get some km racked up.


Cheers Chris

This is what happened to the Disco 2 in the last 6 weeks……

Auto trans serviced (filter replaced with clean and shiny sump) and flushed twice (8 litres)…. Then attempted to install trans temp gauge… using the bung as per the picture (orange circle) from the following thread…. New Allisport transmission cooler
Service kit from Roverlord and Penrite fully synthetic trans fluid Penrite Oil | ATF FS (Full Syn.)


Specs for this a 1/8” NPT thread VDO oil temp sensor with an adaptor to fit the bung which is an M14 1.5 thread. This was a saga to identify and was only solved by a thread gauge at a tool shop 20 minute’s drive away after trying 4 different auto parts shops. What happened to craftsmen being sales people…. It took two afternoons to sort the correct parts. Don’t forget the Teflon tape!!

Attachment 131012

(hmm not sure why that rotated)...


I recommend this supplier from eBay… quick dispatch and had the parts to me overnight from central Victoria to Adelaide. Temp sensor and adaptor.
VDO BRASS ADAPTER 1/8 NPT TO M14X1.5 320 054 | eBay

The gauge is a cheap Autotechnica unit, the Autotechnica sender failed as I tightened the electrical connector.

I jumped the power from the instrument circuit from behind the underdash fuse box, Fuse 27 (solid light green wire) from memory, but check Rave to be sure.

Following all this a couple of weeks later I loaded up the Disco, took the family and the camper trailer camping to Mambray Creek in SA and then through to Clare for few days.

Trans temp results:
Around town with no load – mid 80’s^o C
Around town fully loaded with kids, camper trailer etc. – upto 110-115 ^o C
Open freeway (100km/hr) fully loaded with kids, camper trailer etc – back down to low 90’s ^o C (ambient was 30 ^o C) obviously the torque converter was locked-up.
Worst temp was 131-132 ^o C fully loaded with kids, camper as we climbed the Port Germain Gorge… was a bit of a worry as I had it locked in 2^nd and kept it steady at 2200-2500rpm. Ambient was approx. 25 ^o C.

At this point it is worth noting that as per thread above…. The temp gauge is located in the gallery that feeds the outlet to the trans cooler line, so it is in the hottest part of the transmission.

Transmission after the trip has no leaks, no engine coolant use, oil burn is zero and fuel burn was acceptable (haven’t calc’d l/100km yet but seemed OK).
Anderson plug and dual battery switch worked as per spec.

Kids killed the drivers window…. New regulator on its way from Roverlord…. Despite being told not to play in the car….

Conclusions are that an additional trans cooler is required, with an overall successful first long trip for the fully loaded Disco !!
Wife accepts the performance as satisfactory and was even quite willing to drive…

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Originally Posted by DeanoH

Wasn't too difficult a job, here's my setup



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...oday-setup.jpg

1/. Disconnect the PAS fluid return line and extend it to a suitable container.

Deano :)

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What is the tool that disconnect the PAS line?

Thanks

Julian

I had another crack at fixing the horn on my D2a by swapping out the relay But that didn't fix it.
After fitting a new fuse and swapping the relay for the fog light relay the fuse still blew.
I can't see any chaffed wires and the horn gives a very weak beep ( almost inaudible) just before the fuse blows.
Looks like I will have to replace the horns and give that a go.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

What is the tool that disconnect the PAS line?

Thanks

Julian

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Hey Julian,

The high pressure is a bolted connection the the PAS pump.
The others are just hose clamps, the LR clip type I use a small pointy screw drive and prise them up. I replaced mine with worm drive hose clamps

Cheers Lemo

Just installed EGR bypass kits (thanks Mario!). Also pulled the MAP sensor out just to check it. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/484.jpg
Was just a little dirty....
But nothing compared to the inlet manifold! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/485.jpg
Didn't have a plug to cover the vacuum line at the module, so have blocked the line with a piece of plastic and cable tie at the EGR end. Hope that's ok.

I would've thought that a vac line plug would be with the kit. You can remove the vac line, and plug the solenoid(s)
Or remove the solenoids as well.
Just ensure that the vac line to the brake booster is still attached and working!


Cheers

Julian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I would've thought that a vac line plug would be with the kit. You can remove the vac line, and plug the solenoid(s)
Or remove the solenoids as well.
Just ensure that the vac line to the brake booster is still attached and working!


Cheers

Julian

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That hose has nothing to do with the EGR as it runs of the Alternator[bigrolf].