What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I hate this imperial ****. A 14mm nut and bolt is the same all over? No UNF BSW AF etc. or have I got that wrong?

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Just a carry over from the old days.

It means I could use my supply of aircraft 'K' nuts on the prop flange bolts! [emoji1]

I've heard stories of the nylocs coming loose, K Nuts never loosen, have a reduced hex size for easier access in that spot and are infinitely reusable.

I don't think aircraft hardware is available in metric sizing, and FWIW even Airbus use AN/MS/NAS hardware on their aircraft

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Originally Posted by rick130

I've heard stories of the nylocs coming loose,

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most probably becuase people keep reusing the old ones instead of installing new ones. For some money must be real tight.

More than likely.

The reduced hex on a K nut does help on the flanges though

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I haven't stuffed the nuts. It's standard practice to use new nuts and bolts on this item, or have I got that wrong? I have a pair of 9/16 spanners. It is the multitude of different imperial sizes that gives me the irrites. The metric system is a whole lot more simpler.

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Thin walled slimline 9/16 ring spanners work a treat [thumbsupbig]
I have a pair permanently in the car tool kit[wink11]
And yes it is good practise to not reuse the nylock`s but in a pinch it is fine to do so if you are well aware [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by rick130

More than likely.

The reduced hex on a K nut does help on the flanges though

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For the edification of us great unwashed, do the K nuts just rely on the serrated flange for purchase (in addition to tensioning of course), or is there something else yet again.
Could a K nut with a nylock nylon insert be the bees knees for single use application?

Well things went from horrible to good, managed to change the starter motor on my D2 TD5 in 1.5 hours, that's the good.
The second round of horrible is going to be changing the alternator which has decreed it doesn't want to work anymore.
Is there any tricks to removing and reinstalling the device?
Thanks,
Russell.

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Originally Posted by HYDRO FAN

Well things went from horrible to good, managed to change the starter motor on my D2 TD5 in 1.5 hours, that's the good.
The second round of horrible is going to be changing the alternator which has decreed it doesn't want to work anymore.
Is there any tricks to removing and reinstalling the device?
Thanks,
Russell.

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Haven't had the dubious pleasure myself, but apparently the trick is removal of battery, ecu, and battery/jack tray first. Good luck, and report back [thumbsupbig]

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

For the edification of us great unwashed, do the K nuts just rely on the serrated flange for purchase (in addition to tensioning of course), or is there something else yet again.
Could a K nut with a nylock nylon insert be the bees knees for single use application?

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No, proper aerospace K Nuts use a slight deformation internally at the top of the hex to lock, there is no serration on the flange
They are used on aircraft as they are light, strong, (high tensile) infinitely reusable and made to exacting specs.
I had several packets of moly coated ones left over from another job several lifetimes ago and it gave me an excuse to use them on the old Defender when I discovered the prop bolts were UNF.

Nylocs can be reused in a pinch if you are stuck and don't have a new one handy.

Place on a flat plate of steel and give the nylon ring a tap with a hammer.
This reforms the ring and it gives it greater purchase again.

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Originally Posted by rick130

No, proper aerospace K Nuts use a slight deformation internally at the top of the hex to lock, there is no serration on the flange
They are used on aircraft as they are light, strong, (high tensile) infinitely reusable and made to exacting specs.
I had several packets of moly coated ones left over from another job several lifetimes ago and it gave me an excuse to use them on the old Defender when I discovered the prop bolts were UNF.

Nylocs can be reused in a pinch if you are stuck and don't have a new one handy.

Place on a flat plate of steel and give the nylon ring a tap with a hammer.
This reforms the ring and it gives it greater purchase again.

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You can use Industrial Conelok nuts which have the ends peened over in 3 places for locking rather than the nylon insert. Much better for high tensile applications especially around hot things.

Mainly because the front prop shaft is out and the car will stay on the black stuff.

What grease do I use on the uni joint bearings when I replace the double cardon bearings. Is there a spec for this?

Thanks

Julian