You know its meant to do that right ?
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With a trailer on the back
Changed the water pump today on my TD5.
I have not lost much water over the months but I recently noticed some white streaks down from the drain in the bracket.
Attachment 144276
I did the job by removing the whole bracket and didn't have to move the spinner oil filter or the normal oil filter.
There is a lot of dismantling!
remove shrouds
remove fan
loosen 3 bolts on power steering pulley
remove belt
Remove engine cover
remove oil breather hose
remove top air inlet hose
remove air cleaner completely
Remove lower shroud underneath car and drain coolant.
remove top radiator hose
remove aircon compressor and swing out of the way and hold with zip ties.
remove power steering pump by undoing 5 holding bolts and pull forward
remove top air inlet hose
remove turbo to intercooler hose
remove bracket holding water pump
Bit more detail
There are 5 bolts and 1nut. The middle bolt in the rear will need a 3/8 drive socket with a wobble extension.
When replacing the bracket insert the bolt into the bracket before trying to replace the bracket
The rest of the bolts are pretty accessible and the nut is OK once the power steering pump is removed. I used a 15MM ring spanner as a socket was not possible.
I replaced the water pump on the bench by whacking the old one out with a drift as it was a bit tight. I turned the bracket upside down to make sure the orings stayed in place.
Don't forget the oring between the bracket and block, as that is the reason you removed the bracket.
I left the hose on the old water pump and undid the clamps.
This was the ****tiest part of the job as my steel hose is a bit out of position and stopped the bottom clamp from sliding down. Took me a long time. I use the spring clamps and its bloody hard to get access with the removal tool.
To put back together just reverse the above steps .
To fill radiator take out the bung from the top hose and fill until water comes out, preferably through a funnel that fits tightly in the filler cap hole.
Take for a drive until the temperature reaches thermostat open at 82 C and then let cool down and top up. Hopefully no leaks. Leave the bottom shroud off until you get home so you can see any leaks.
Took me about 5 hours but I am old and slow.
Regards Philip A
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I did a write up in the “D2” section.
“Tuff terrain snorkel (raised air intake)”.
Have put in everything I could think of and some photos to book.
I have an issue where the snorkel part that goes through the guard doesn’t line up perfectly with the inner guard/air box hole. It’s about 1-2cm too far forward. It seals fine, but may impact airflow slightly. Am currently in discussion via email with the supplier and they have been very responsive.
Check out the write up.
I believe they are supposed to flash when a trailer is connected IF the trailer bulbs are “working”. If trailer attached and not flashing on dash when indicator on means trailer indicator not working.
Problem is they work with incandescent bulbs by effectively measuring overall resistance in circuit. Sufficient resistance equals flash on dash (ie one more bulb - one on the trailer - is plugged in). Put an extra indicator on the after market bullbar ARB style and car “thinks” it’s a trailer bulb. Thus now if dash stops flashing it means at least one of your indicator bulbs is dead ....UNLESS you’re running LED bulbs anywhere in which case it’s entirely possible that even with a trailer attached the dash light won’t flash ....