What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

The only sign that I know of is a lot of slop in the centre diff.

When it is dismantled you will see a great deal of bronze swarf in the recess at the nose of the diff. It doesn't seem to work to the back and come out of the drain plug as there is a sort of reservoir in the bottom of the nose.
And of course non existent bronze shims.
I only know this as I bought a CDL nose for my non CDL 2002 transfer and swapped the noses using my diff and bearing to get the mechanism. It was full of swarf and very depleted bronze shims. My centre diff was fine as it was an urban car.
Regards PhilipA

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Thanks Philip, may have dodged this bullet then and can I assume that the problem wont arise unless those conditions of wheelspin are met?

As an aside Ashcrofts got back to me and they are out of stock until late September so I suppose put it all back together to get ready to take it apart in October.

Step one in my D2’s transfer box re-build was completed today when I picked the newly sleeved case from a local cylinder head and engine re builder. My job was not his usual line of work, and he was very busy but he would do it if i was prepared to wait a bit for it. I also had a ‘spare’ transfer case done at the same time to keep or on-sell….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7356c4ba75.jpg

What a struggle, drilling out the plate and fitting not really a problem but getting the plate to sit again to refit and rivet, pain in the proverbial, thank god for another set of hands. Even then with him underneath could only get two done on the passengers side, then the fix a crow bar through the auto changer linkage hole and easy peasy.

Then email from Ashcrofts that they had one ATB and sending it off today, luck is back...

Attachment 173176

Wondering why my FPR (Bosch replacement early this year) leaking around o-ring, changed it twice with last one being an oversize cross section o-ring that significantly reduced but didn't stop the drip. It was still the same with return line unclipped, so confirmed regulator not a return line blockage.

Then I recalled the one that was in the vehicle when I acquired it was dripping like a tap, hence replaced with Bosch unit, so put that back in out of curiosity...

Attachment 173177

Well how many of you have been checking fuel pressure before/after replacing these things ? Coz I just blindly followed the pack up until today. Just assumed dicky o-rings.

Will be getting Fuel Block welded up with a 35mm cover during the week and plumbing in an external adjustable regulator.

The return line pressure was under 2 bar, which is ok.

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Originally Posted by onebob

Step one in my D2’s transfer box re-build was completed today when I picked the newly sleeved case from a local cylinder head and engine re builder. My job was not his usual line of work, and he was very busy but he would do it if i was prepared to wait a bit for it. I also had a ‘spare’ transfer case done at the same time to keep or on-sell….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7356c4ba75.jpg

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BTW - that cost me $480 to have both done , probably paid more than it could be done for elsewhere - but it’s done well.

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Originally Posted by RRT

What a struggle, drilling out the plate and fitting not really a problem but getting the plate to sit again to refit and rivet, pain in the proverbial, thank god for another set of hands. Even then with him underneath could only get two done on the passengers side, then the fix a crow bar through the auto changer linkage hole and easy peasy.

Then email from Ashcrofts that they had one ATB and sending it off today, luck is back...

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I drilled mine out, then refitted using nutserts and bolts.

Makes it easy if ever needs removing again.

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Originally Posted by johnp38

Attachment 173176

Wondering why my FPR (Bosch replacement early this year) leaking around o-ring, changed it twice with last one being an oversize cross section o-ring that significantly reduced but didn't stop the drip. It was still the same with return line unclipped, so confirmed regulator not a return line blockage.

Then I recalled the one that was in the vehicle when I acquired it was dripping like a tap, hence replaced with Bosch unit, so put that back in out of curiosity...

Attachment 173177

Well how many of you have been checking fuel pressure before/after replacing these things ? Coz I just blindly followed the pack up until today. Just assumed dicky o-rings.

Will be getting Fuel Block welded up with a 35mm cover during the week and plumbing in an external adjustable regulator.

The return line pressure was under 2 bar, which is ok.

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I had a fitting machined ages ago for a pressure gauge and monitored since.

Good work.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I drilled mine out, then refitted using nutserts and bolts.

Makes it easy if ever needs removing again.

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Shoving that cable back in and getting the plate flat again even to do the bolts, nah, think would get that done by someone else. The bolts make a lot of sense though, not having to get the plate tight against the frame would have saved a fair bit of angst.

If weight removal is a performance upgrade, is the rear harmonic balancer a necessity??? This is one heavy bit of kit and hopefully it can stay on the garage floor, not sure how it could possibly reduce a rotational vibration. OR is it as the post below says reduces noise? What noise was it was designed to reduce, thought that was what Radio's were for in Land Rovers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical...6=#post1394894

I know the front one is to damp harmonics from the springs so probably the same function in the rear.

After I raised the front I used to get a real buzz when turning right on a highway curve in my 77 RRC.

Fixed it by pushing plastic tube over the spring.
Regards PhilipA