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Solar went on.
Kings 160W panel, not the greatest but I’ve used them before and for the money you can’t beat them. Will run my fridge and have the battery back to 100% before noon. Wiring run up through the plastic grommet on the roof, pretty easy job.
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Sealed off the coolant system today, all pipes on and clipped. The fuel heater hose replacement from the bulkhead was a doozy, with the clip inconveniently placed and the pipe bonded to the barb. Loosened the fuel heater and only then with a struggle to get it off, thank Howard for the clip tool.
Then a bit of boy therapy wrapping the downpipe in readiness for installing the turbo proper - will be doing the delete pipe when we ensure fitment / modification required.
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Only to find the supplied oil return line did not fit...
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So what to do, wait a few more weeks for another from DD or manufacturer one up from scratch? No way to both so we cut it and fabricated an extension,
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This is being professionally welded tomorrow so we can install and hopefully start the beast.
Oh also took out the top plastic and sun visors so as to install a bracket for the EWP controller and Coolant alarm (also fitting a amplified aerial for DAB, FM and AM reception in front of the carry bar)
Modifications to turbo to intercooler intake - the supplied black pipe has been cut about 3 inches and the standard steel pipe about an inch and a half
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Topped up the coolant and ran the EWP for a couple of hours with a radiator flush going through the system, and then finding and fixing leaks! Had hoped to install the turbo but there was a problem, alright a couple of problems.
Somehow I forget to put a gasket on the water return pipe on the engine, bit of a search and found it. Turns out it is needed to keep fluid in the system, ahhh living and learning.
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Blew the engine dry and then pressurized the system (the engine was not running of course with the EWP humming quietly away so no pressure expansion with heat) and four hose fixes later there was still dripping going on. Eventually it was found to be the oil cooler, leaking somewhere behind the oil whizzer.
Emptied the system out just for practice and not to waste some good stuff!
So got all the oil assemblies out (no turbo institu) and sanded flat the casing but will now get another gasket just to be sure.
We pumped the system up to about 30psi which exposed a couple of them which did not leak at 15 psi, but better to know any potential future leaks.
Was going to cut off the dag on the coolant return pipe but this turned out to be very useful in topping up the system rather than lifting up the bottle, have plugged it with a bolt and will put a grip around it, but it held at the higher pressure without leaking anyway. It is clearly visible in this photo
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Had a funny moment when checking for leaks as it seemed the plug in between the exhausts ports was leaking, no just the colour goo they had used to seal it, had my little heart beating a bit fast ...,
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One to rebuild one for a spare.
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Have gone retro and got a ZF autotrans sump pan off a Classic Range Rover today, complete with dipstick and tube. And when I fit it there will be no more stuffing around crawling under the Disco when it comes time to fill and check AT fluid levels - it’ll all be done without fuss and inconvenience from the engine compartment. [emoji1419]
Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
Smart move. For the same reasons, I had one added onto my now departed D2a, and also have one on the RRC TD5.
From memory the D1 and maybe also the V8 had them as standard.
The things that slip through the cracks, great move and had on my minds list but forgot to source!Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
Bit of McGuyvering today. Picked up an airbox lid from the wreckers for $10.....i didn't know at the time it was for a td5 though.
Put an old staino bolt through the hole for wherever sensor goes in the td5 that doesn't exist on my v8, and made the broken latch usable again.
Its a little dodgy but so much better than how mine was secured to the maf sensor with a handful of cable ties (original one is the 3rd pic with the smashed latch) [emoji28]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5c85222b5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4e0fdbf94b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5400100b90.jpg
I put in my own 'new school' tune after many hours of reading and rereading offtrack's very informative and valuable website www.discotd5.com and am quite chuffed with the results.
Having 2 already socketed MSB units on hand also helped , mine is 99 disco 2 with 10p eu2.
Also (now I can read the tuning files with enough understanding to be dangerous) if you have a eu2 10p motor the default fallback value if your MAF carks it is a big fat 0, so if you have EGR delete pipe on 10p save your money if MAF dies as it is not used for anything else.
I also test drove with MAF plugged in and unplugged and it made no difference to my auto shifting either, which was the only thing I thought it might possibly affect (guesswork as not documented anywhere).
15p eu3 donks DO use MAF for fueling so that's another story.
Looks like my 1999 TD5 donk needs a new viscous fan.
Price ex AU as much as $415
Price ex UK (to which I have to add transport) $150.
And they wonder why we call some of them stealers!
