Lol I used to run 35 simxes are they weren't that bad but with a 4inch intake that's the loudest partQuote:
Originally Posted by shack
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Lol I used to run 35 simxes are they weren't that bad but with a 4inch intake that's the loudest partQuote:
Originally Posted by shack
After the saga with the bearing collapse and then non-starting we thought we were back on the road. And we are but minus accessory circuits, radio and wipers/washers. Been up and down all through the fuses, FLs and relays......all good. When I hosed the windscreen the radio and wipers came on briefly, only to vanish before I could tune the radio and then again briefly twice more, once when we had a quick rain shower. Grrrrrrr!
Dunno where to look.
Had the issue when I got the D2 of a lot of accessories not working, fuses were good but this board has known issues with water ingress and literally cracking. Had to replace it with another (can be either TD5 or V8 but must be of the same series D2 or D2a) and the central locking, sunroof and a few other systems were back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinggu
The water may be making a circuit (assuming that there is a minor leak of sorts down the A pillar to the fuse box) but as the electricity flows and warms, the water dries out. It was told to me that the backing at the top corner was incorrectly applied for some time on the assembly line or the windscreen itself may not be sealing, more prevalent in non genuine LR windscreens it would appear.
Had noticed during the week when finally started the D2, that the power steering pump was making a squeal. BIL took it out and when I got there today, it was all in bits and no centre shaft. He was out and so work on the engine stopped. Shack has provided me with a tune to get started now the NNN is in and have put the MAP supplied with the kit in as well. The centre probe assembly is smaller than the standard d2 and had been waiting on the correct from Darkside Developments but that has not arrived.
To get around this we made a gasket and put the MAP in place, no PAS pump no start though...
So have drained the coolant and let it drip overnight and fresh coolant in tomorrow. Tightened up the rear diff guard, no problem but the bolts to the back of the front diff proved troublesome and may have cross threaded the starting threads, job for tomorrow though.
Then the real fun began, have good access for wiring and the silicon hoses (boost gauge and boost controller) but let me say the Lord Jesus was not happy with the language I used in trying to route from below to the top of the dashboard for the EGT and Boost gauges, sorry.
Then onto the airbox to turbo and finally had some good luck. One of the supplied tubes was cut down and fitted beautifully into the MAF connection of the airbox and then simple cut and onto to the standard turbo intake. It was nothing really. Just need to weld two lugs for the clip connector from the airbox for surety.
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Took some pics of the EGR delete pipe with the subtle bend to clear the EWP and the exhaust. Welding on the support bracket tomorrow and then wrapping like a christmas present.
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Turns out its quite dark under the D2 but as you can see there was quite of bit of work with the cuts and welding.
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Due to the BIL telling me that the PSA was stuffed (80 series owners panic at any noise it seems lol) had actually ordered a replacement and was wondering if could cut the rear shaft into the waterpump off so it would not drive a useless stalk. FOr reference I have removed the impellor as it would just get in the way of EWP flow and cost me KW's. Going to replace the bearing anyway not it is off as a precautionary measure.
Attachment 175367
Well it turns out the knuckle to the water pump knuckle is already off and will not be replaced so no spinning shaft, now wish I had cut it off totally but no way am I going back in to get it out!!!!
So all this and topping up the auto and out on the streets
Thanks for that. By "board" I guess you mean the fuse board under the dash? This evening the radio came on but when I tried the wipers it went dead again. Now the radio comes on but when I try the wipers I can here a relay clicking on and off under the dash. Interestingly when I try the washers the radio clicks on and off but the relay is silent.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
Switching over a whole fuseboard would be a nightmare?
Its not actually is plug and play and make sure you have all the relays and fuses that your original fuse panel has....😁Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinggu
Reversing out the drive, clipped the gate with my right hand mirror, knocking the actual mirror part itself loose. The demister wires stopped it from hitting the pavement. Of course, being a Land Rover, the separation occurred at the hard to press back together joint, not the easy to press back together part so "crack" when trying to click the glass back in :soapbox: . Finally figured out that there was an easy connection and reassembled, but not before removing the entire mirror assembly from the door.
Next, I pull the ashtray out just as I would in every other vehicle I've ever owned and promptly ripped the front of it off. Then I noticed the little lever that's supposed to be pressed. Fixed with some hot glue, but what is it with this melted plastic "riveting" that Land Rover used? Everytime I go anywhere near the stuff, I seem to break it. :soapbox:
Finally, I decided to hunt down the reason why my cruise control stopped working. Got the gonads up to pull the airbag to get to the CC flip switches. Discovered the "Set" micro switch is dead. Probably could have fixed it with a Jaycar part for a couple of bucks, but the assortment of brass pins and springs used for the little paddles was enough to convince me to hit ebay for a secondhand replacement unit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinggu
Is only small bolt at the top of the box and a locator on the bottom, undo top bolt and lift out, pulling of the harnesses as you can - replacement the reverse of course. Made the rookie mistake of rear harnesses, there are two brown harnesses and the smaller brown harness fits in the larger one, stumped me as it is tight once you start putting in the harness and turning it around in the position it is nigh impossible once a couple of harnesses are hooked up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradtot
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It requires a bit of the Land Rover three hands to position it but as noted, it is plug and play. Think on the V8 board which I got it had an extra yellow relay and as mine has all the toys there were a few fuse lacking. It did give a bag or replacement of fuses and relays that if I ever need one, I got it!
Thanks Bradtot and RRT. I spent the dark hours wrestling with the idea of switching boards and came to the conclusion that it could not be my worst fear of resoldering 80 fiddly wires. Thanks for the clarification.
Pete
I fixed the spare spare tyre with one of those short screws with glue you can get from eBay. I know that some soft cock snowflakes will get their knickers in a twist claiming that this is not legal, they are right. I can't see the police giving me a hard time about this repair up in the Victorian High Country, or Googs track etc. This repair fixes the tyre until I can get a proper repair on it. I am please that it worked.
I had a look at the driver's door retainer. Mine is noisy. They cost a mint. $400+ I can live with the noise
