The main thing is to elongate the holes at each end of the manifold to allow for expansion, and probably the next 2 sets also.
Regards PhilipA
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The main thing is to elongate the holes at each end of the manifold to allow for expansion, and probably the next 2 sets also.
Regards PhilipA
This ^Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
I didn't bother de-webbing.
We went up a couple of drill sizes in the last couple of holes, just a quicker way to do it.
Manifold already done by one of the previous owners, along with a terrible fail at tapping the original head for 10mm studs at the ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
That head was benched very early in my ownership along with the injectors with cracked/destroyed spring cups due to (guessing) bump stop adjustment issues.
The replacement head still has 8mm studs all round and staying that way, I think the already bigger stud holes in the exhaust manifold and to be added by machine shop web slits will do the trick.
In the meantime I have the passenger side trans cooler line fitting both hose ends loose where they are swaged onto the steel tube and quick connect fitting :(
Seemed ok when I was playing with the transmission but as I disassembled the front end last night to fit the D2a intercooler and popped the trans cooler out spotted the movement.
Oh well, better multiple issues while at home than getting caught out one at a time on the road I suppose.
This is what happened to my Disco over the last 6 months... Part 1
So during last winter the harmonic balancer failed…through the casting…and Disco2 is approaching 190k …I had a plan to give him a big preventative maintenance birthday at 200k, but seeing as this is open abdominal surgery to get to the HB I thought why not do bring the birthday forward and do it all at once with it open….
The plan was new HB, front seal, radiator, water pump, new coolant thermostat (75oC), new coolant hoses, install additional trans cooler, replace the old trans cooler with one with AN fittings, upgrade the trans cooler line to AN8 teflon/ss braid, install a trans oil thermostat to utilise the new big trans cooler, plus a few bits along the way like the intake air temp sensor onto the intercooler pipe where the old EGR was and a new fan bearing…….
Most of these parts I had acquired over the years in anticipation and read the online ‘How to’s’ from AULRO and Discovery2.co.uk…but I did buy a new 500Nm torque wrench….
Its not as straight forward as one would think given the HB could flex, 2m length of angle iron and the MIG helped hold it steady to get it loose. The 2m angle then became special tool number 99-2022, to help hold it when tightening.
I had reservations about the front crank seal at this point, but utilised the ‘She’ll be right’ method and moved on…
Going on 5 weeks later (only available to work on it for about 1 full day on the weekend)…New AN8 hoses made up, new cooler installed and thermostat cooler installed it was time to add the coolant and oil back into everything.
Coolant leaked out of the water pump housing before I even reconnected the battery….this awkward job required the replacement of the main o-ring to seal the housing, which was somehow pinched and broken when installing…half a day lost, coolant back in and it starts first crank…..trans oil spraying and running out under the car….AN8 hose connection failing and the AN fitting on the end of the pipe needs to be moved to shorter distance…a day lost and pride damaged.
The following week resentful and oppressed by the Land Rover Gods, it all goes back together but shorten the time back on the road by ignoring the new trans oil thermostat and just connect in the original (now with An fitting) instead….starts first crank, coolant stays where is should and so does the trans oil…up the freeway full temp and load …result is oil leaks from front crank seal and the AN fitting at the connection of the pipe and the hose……
Over the coming months the leaks are bad enough to avoid parking in the driveway …so I acquire a new front seal and devise plan to complete the trans cooler upgrade in the Christmas break…..
Over 3 days from Boxing Day onwards I replace the front crank seal and complete the trans cooler upgrade…fortunately my mate who does the TIG welding of the AN fittings is home and completes his warranty job on the AN fitting weld, which was leaking, not my AN hose work.
Quick service and its all back together and no leaks. A hard run up the freeway, transmission heats up to 80oC and stays steady….all oils and coolants stay where they should, additional trans cooler is hot, a degrease and we are ready to drag the camper and 3 kids around Kangaroo Island for 9 days….but WHY does it now seem like it will stall and then recover to ideal on 1000rpm when put into reverse and the kick down when in Drive feels like its about to jump out of gear….
What a lot of heartache…but during the KI trip the Disco engine temp was upto 105oC, trans temp did not go above 85oC pulling the camper up long hills at 60km in 35oC…did not lose any oil or coolant!!.
If anyone has any ideas what may be happening to the transmission, I am open to suggestions….
FYI the trans cooling circuit runs through the thermostat, when closed through the standard factory cooler only. When open at 80 it runs though the big new cooler and then the standard factory cooler…is there a pressure issue?
Does the transmission pump have to work too hard to get the oil to return?
Thermostat is a standard Derale oil thermostat….with AN8 fittings
If the trans wasn't playing up before but is now, I think you know where to start looking, there could be a flow restriction in the thermostat fitting you added.
Could you bypass this so it's back to stock and see what happens?
I'm not an auto specialist, but I'd suggest it's not good to be driving it like that.
Took the passenger side trans cooler line off and went to Pirtek to discuss options, conversation was too heavy duty hydraulic connector focused and how/why it can't be done without drama, until I said but but but on the forums I read about jic something they are like AN fittings.
Well then we end up back in the show room and all the pretty coloured anodised stuff that I had walked past, but when discussing brazing/tigging ends on the lines and cooler, turned into how spotlessly clean I had to get everything before they did it ( I'm paying don't they have the correct cleaning chemicals and know how was my unspoken thought).
But I actually will have to do a temp job with hose and clamps for now, as I was given a price of 160 or thereabouts to make up each line and no price for the cooler ends till they saw it.
Not much different perhaps than buying 2 new oem lines, which I am now considering as an option instead of altering the setup to non factory at similar cost, only one line is suss and has surface cracks in rubber, other is ok so can do separately as funds permit.
If anyone knows a good tigger in adelaide please tell, as I can buy the fittings and make up the lines myself but welding thin stuff no touchy.
I am also going to wreckers in case I chance on a vehicle with newer more recently replaced lines.
John,Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp38
I have been running a setup that keeps the end connector and hose, but loses the swage, I cut the part of the swage off where I wanted to put the hose clamp, and simply put a good quality hose clamp on.
I'm running plenty of pressure and have been for a fair while, still hasn't come off.
In fact I'd be willing to suggest that there are plenty of discovery 2s belonging to owners on this forum, that I could pull the hose out of the swage with my bare hands, that haven't blown off yet.
I bet no one can pull the hose off that I clamped on with a hose clamp though.
Cheers
Sounds good. Did you use a bolt type clamp like this?:
Clamp Performer T-Bolt Zinc Plated W1 - Powell Industrial
Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Not quite...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4ff6041668.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by simonmelb
