^or a bolt/nut extractor socket? worked for me
not sure how much room you got in there but
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^or a bolt/nut extractor socket? worked for me
not sure how much room you got in there but
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com.au/Irwin-Tool...000QW6K8I&th=1
I don't reckon you need them(extractors type tool).
I had same issue on the flanged nuts on my tdi's fan pulley. all three nuts were rounded same as shown here.
I had a few useless pin type sockets that didn't work to remove.
Went to local parts store and talking with a rep, he suggested Kingchrome 'LokOn' socket sets.
Worked perfectly on the rounded nuts.
Now the LokOn set is my go too socket set where it's applicable, and I hate having to reach for a smaller or larger non LokOn set for fear of rounding the head.
Does my rear look good in black…https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...cf0447ecde.jpg
And replaced the front cam seal… hopefully r the only oil leak is from the rear main now…
Today, I got the round off nut undone with the use of some heat and an extractor socket as many suggested. Dropped the crossmemeber and unbolted the exhaust to give enough room to work. Slave cylinder is now changed, as was the master and the bleeding process has started..... or should it the "Bleeding! Bl*^#dy!" process to get at least some pedal resistance.....
After getting help to pump the pedal from my reluctant teenager and three seperate attempts we finally got most the air out and some feel to the pedal, I'm leaving it chocked in the down position overnight as a couple of posts have suggested.
Discofenderhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bf8e65ca07.jpg
It does, at least you still have the end caps to finish the bumper, recently fitted a steel bar also but those little corner things were long gone......https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ce049d2562.jpg
Just spent $500 getting a new key and ECU coded on a locked out D2A...350 for a battery
Cranks starts, for about a second then dies.
Dual Fuel
Truly blessed.