I stripped out the radiator, intercooler, trans cooler, fan shaft and bearing…. Plus all the other stuff to get to it…..still need to pull off the harmonic balancer, original trans cooler pipes and water pump…..one bolt at a time…..
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I stripped out the radiator, intercooler, trans cooler, fan shaft and bearing…. Plus all the other stuff to get to it…..still need to pull off the harmonic balancer, original trans cooler pipes and water pump…..one bolt at a time…..
It doesn't look that bad, maybe those cracks do have enough 'give' to produce the vibration under load, i.e. low range up a steep hill. I can flex the donut, radially and open up the cracks, it would be easy for the propshaft to open up the cracks with the horsepower from the engine, both of them :-)
If this does fix the issue then no D4 for me!
carsales.com.au
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Yep that looks Knackered.
The D4 looks stunning in that colour
I'm thinking of visiting it for a selfie.Quote:
Originally Posted by thai_tiger
Polyurethane Flex Disc Drive Shaft For BMW E30 E36 E46 M3 flex disc LK=96mm/12mm | eBayQuote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Found this while looking for the thicker 35mm BMW donut
The donut that I just replaced (pictured) was worse than that and really only produced vibration at speed, 85kph+, was not too bad or noticeable up the hills round the Thompson dam in Low 1&2??Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Attachment 179474
Having replaced it now with the original, did look at the polyurethane ones but they were not available off the shelf here, still have a slight vibration at 90kph+ that on the trip to Corowa last weekend still vibrated enough to trip the ACE sensor and bring on the orange light - went off when restarting. Thinking I will have to go and replace the bearing again???
Got the delivery of the attachments for the RAM balls. One for the Phone, one for a Hero / Canon Camera and one for a Screen. Thinking I might have to go down a size of screen, but when I hit the tracks next will think about it then.
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Attachment 179477
Now to route the cables from a USB hub through the back of the dash pod down to underneath the steering wheel
LOL thanks for the heads up. Cleared the fault and it went away. For now.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp38
Did the water pump. Wasn't too bad a job. Not sure why someone posted a how to on here and said to remove turbo heat shield. Totally not needed. The Haines manual said to remove the turbo. Well that wasn't needed either. In fact the centrifugal rotor drain pipe didn't even need to removed from the housing.
Fresh Castrol oil, new oil filters, new air filter, some Liqui-Moly Ceratec and some Liqui-Moly diesel de-carboniser into the plenum and WOW what a difference to how this thing runs! Feels like a new car.
I posted way earlier in this thread too ... this depends on what water pump you got(as in bought and is already installed), it seems not all pumps are identical. Some pumps are made dimensionally just slightly different.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_Rides
When we did bros Td5, had a hell of a time getting the old pump wriggled out from down there. Thought at one stage to slice a corner off it with grinder to get it out, but that wouldn't help get the new one in would it. So twisted and turned it for ... far too long to get it between the centrifugal housing and the casting, and almost nearly removed the oil housing. Bro had a go, I had a go, bro had a go .. etc. It was only millimeters in it, but was looking hopeless at one stage, till we(can't remember if him or me) ... struck the correct tetris orientation and it came out.
"There was much rejoicing!" ... can't describe the jubilation accurately enough, as to how annoying this removal process was becoming.
Then of course try to get it back in carefully to be sure, noted the orientation and pushed back in. Pulled back out and no probs. Felt confident to get the new pump in now, without the additional headache of removing the centrifugal housing.
So I went to get the new pump between the obstructing hardware and it just went in. No care taken to 'orient' it exactly the way it needed to be, just straight in. Haha... pot luck it would seem.
No!
The new(Bearmach) pump was something like 5mm shorter in length than the pump that came out. Can't recall exactly, maybe the keyed shaft end or whatever, but without thinking the shorter length allowed it the clearance to get between the obstructions in any way.
I only assume that the pump that came out was original .. couldn't really tell. Didn't care, and not smart enough to get photos at the time.
But .. still have it in mind that if it ever needs(or I have to deal with a leaking td5 water pump again ... get bearmach to be sure it fits easily .. and grind the old one to tiny bits, it she don't come out in one shot! [biggrin]
