I think Tins means the FPR O-ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
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I think Tins means the FPR O-ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Epoxy red oxide might be over kill but hey it's not like I need much. With hindsight being less aggressive with the adhesive removal around the sides and bottom would have made life easier (got annoyed at it being stubborn and wizzed it and all the paint off with a stripper wheel) but also there's only so little paint you can mix up at a time.
Attachment 194757
That I did. And it's OK so far...[bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by RANDLOVER
Installed a headlight harness so turning the headlights are now positive switched with less voltage drop
Also installed the inside half of the harness that will be used for my light bar/spotlights once I've fitted my bullbar (when my mate has time) almost losing the pin that holds the ignition barrel in place at the same time. Is wired up to a cruise control latching switch with the cover swapped over.
3 coats of top coat, this time sprayed on. Will admit it was nice to wait 10min between coats not 12 hrs but all the masking and taping is unfun. The more attentive will notice the bonnet (and rest of car is silver, I both like the white more (tbh kinda tempted to do the roof all white at some point) and given my skill the transition will be noticeable imho better to make it "feature"
Attachment 194852
Adjusted the XYZ on the D2a. Since I got it was out of whack on N, D and 3.
Tried to do it with exhaust in, but fat hands don't fit past the cat, so decision was made to remove down pipe ... to bolts on the front cross member rounded(already were savaged), and Kingchrome LokOn sockets usually get me out of trouble ... not this time.
Hard to remove downpipe with cross member in the way, but with centre muffler removed(dropped) made enough space to finagle the downpipe back, twist and had to just release the centre cross member(not remove it) to get the downpipe out.
After about 4 hrs of messing about and having the downpipe out of the car, I then realised I didn't need to remove it completely, just move it far enough out the way to get to XYZ.
But I also wanted to get to the turbo drain gasket and much easier to get to the rear bolt on that with pipe removed.
That was easy peasy, and as expected the flange was warped. Already had a flattened one standing by, I also cut a slot on the flange at the bolt hole for the rear bolt so that the bolt stays in place(on turbo) loosely, gasket fitted and then slip on the drain pipe onto the rear bolt. Saves a lot of messing about trying to fit the bolt the std method.
Anyhow both success, much easier to just pull the trans and it slots into drive, rather than having to stuff about trying to get it into psuedo D so that the trans works.
And the D2a is 99% oil free up front, now closer to 99.9% oil free with no leaking oil drain.
Oh, and once all the bruises, aches and pains felt less traumatic ... and I could get my arms up to the keyboard, onto ebay and ordered the cheapest bolt extractor set I could find.
Hmmph. Mine was easy, until I had to get a RWC. It failed on the flex joint of the down pipe, and the only pipe I could get my hands on at the time was with a cat.... Of course, that's when the XYZ needed doing.
Get a de-cat.
Sold my 1/2 done D2 Ute project to a former forum member “Muppet”
He’s going to strip all the good bits off and put them into his to get it up and running again.
Will be good to clear it out of the workshop. Need the space for things that are a brewing!
Is Muppet still playing with LandRovers! Did you have any pics of the Ute project?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Finally had the enthusiasm and willpower (assisted by half the interior already being apart) to change the crushed and corroded heater core pipes. Ain't that half a job wouldn't have been quite as obnoxious if some clever engineer hadn't put some of the fasteners for the pipes facing the firewall.
