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Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

  1. #5171
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
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    So this morning I thought ‘I’ll fix the fuel level in the Land Rover’. After I pulled off the electrical connection I noticed that a pin is badly corroded and falling out. At a closer inspection the end of the power wire is blackened. Good thing I decided to fix it now!
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #5172
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Merbein
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    177
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    Off to Burra next weekend for a Rally so i thought better give the old girl the once over. Coolant leak on top hose so ditched the spring clamp and put a worm drive type clamp on. Found an oil leak on the half moon on the back of the rocker cover, so new gasket needed, still got the duct tape on the fuel filler flap, need to get another plastic clip, and the number plate lights aren't working, so time for some new ones of them. A very productive night! Now to order all the bits.
    PeterN
    70' 164 Manual Volvo 227,000miles play car. "Sven"
    2001 BMW R1150RT bike, 118,000Km "Bruce"
    2000 D2 TD5 Auto 329,500Km and climbing. "Leaky" (VK3JUG)
    2024 Dualcab Hilux work truck, 12,000Km.

  3. #5173
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Moe
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    Going out for dinner last night. Got a couple of km's down the road and cruise control turned itself off and MIL came on. Engine continued running OK while I pulled over asking myself what sort of fresh hell has been unleashed now. Without turning it off plugged in the trusty Nanocom which revealed "Crank speed high". Cleared the fault, turned engine off and restarted and continued on without a repeat performance. No more faults logged.
    Seeing as it's overdue for new oil and filters I've contacted Mario and Heather and whistled up the filters plus a crank angle sensor.
    The burning question now is; Do I feel lucky or do I park it up and drive my wife's '97 Subaru? On reflection I reckon I'll park it up - I don't fancy being stranded.
    Cheers,
    Mark F...
    Vk3KW

    2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
    2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
    197? Range Rover - gone
    1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
    Outback Campers Sturt
    http://jandmf.com

  4. #5174
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    3,244
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    Rock Sliders

    Rock_Slider01.jpg

    Rock_Slider02.jpg

    Too exhausted to add words.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  5. #5175
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Rock_Slider01.jpg

    Rock_Slider02.jpg

    Too exhausted to add words.

    How hard was it to install?

  6. #5176
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    How hard was it to install?
    Hmm, not that hard, long and tedious. I used a jack to raise up the sliders, rear part upwards, i.e. at an angle. I am on my own for this. Raise it so that the cut out matches the 'B' pillar. Jack up so that the slider is level. Check the front, as the instructions say something about make sure the front wheel is clear. I used a rubber mallet to improve the fit.

    Drilling the holes. Painful. I had a angled drive unit, designed for nuts and bolt, I am sure, that **** itself after half a hole. The battery powered unit struggeld with the 13mm holes. The 240V drill, running of the inverter, cut through the aluminium like a hot knife through butter, sadly this unit was to large to fit on the inside of the sill.

    On the first, driver's side I drilled all the holes and threaded the bolts, then tightened the bolts, working around the jack.
    On the passengerside I drilled hole fore and aft and threaded and tightened these two bolts.
    Then I removed the jack and drilled and threaded, and tightened the remainder, except the two that match up with the aux battery, sitting on the air compressor shelf.
    The passenger side has 6 bolts, the driver's side has 8. 13mm holes and 8.5mm holes, washers on the bolt and nut side.
    THe fitting kit came with steel spacers to stop the sill from collapsing. It is aluminium after all.
    BTW APT have 4 bolts per side. No spacers. All 10mm holes.

    Hang on Kaaaiju, you have rock sliders on your Disco!! Why ask? It took me maybe 4 hours all up. I'm not then fastest, I try to get it right the first time.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #5177
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Hmm, not that hard, long and tedious. I used a jack to raise up the sliders, rear part upwards, i.e. at an angle. I am on my own for this. Raise it so that the cut out matches the 'B' pillar. Jack up so that the slider is level. Check the front, as the instructions say something about make sure the front wheel is clear. I used a rubber mallet to improve the fit.

    Drilling the holes. Painful. I had a angled drive unit, designed for nuts and bolt, I am sure, that **** itself after half a hole. The battery powered unit struggeld with the 13mm holes. The 240V drill, running of the inverter, cut through the aluminium like a hot knife through butter, sadly this unit was to large to fit on the inside of the sill.

    On the first, driver's side I drilled all the holes and threaded the bolts, then tightened the bolts, working around the jack.
    On the passengerside I drilled hole fore and aft and threaded and tightened these two bolts.
    Then I removed the jack and drilled and threaded, and tightened the remainder, except the two that match up with the aux battery, sitting on the air compressor shelf.
    The passenger side has 6 bolts, the driver's side has 8. 13mm holes and 8.5mm holes, washers on the bolt and nut side.
    THe fitting kit came with steel spacers to stop the sill from collapsing. It is aluminium after all.
    BTW APT have 4 bolts per side. No spacers. All 10mm holes.

    Hang on Kaaaiju, you have rock sliders on your Disco!! Why ask? It took me maybe 4 hours all up. I'm not then fastest, I try to get it right the first time.
    Thought u were too tired to add words?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  8. #5178
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    3,244
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Thought u were too tired to add words?
    Beer works wonders.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  9. #5179
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    834
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Hmm, not that hard, long and tedious. I used a jack to raise up the sliders, rear part upwards, i.e. at an angle. I am on my own for this. Raise it so that the cut out matches the 'B' pillar. Jack up so that the slider is level. Check the front, as the instructions say something about make sure the front wheel is clear. I used a rubber mallet to improve the fit.

    Drilling the holes. Painful. I had a angled drive unit, designed for nuts and bolt, I am sure, that **** itself after half a hole. The battery powered unit struggeld with the 13mm holes. The 240V drill, running of the inverter, cut through the aluminium like a hot knife through butter, sadly this unit was to large to fit on the inside of the sill.

    On the first, driver's side I drilled all the holes and threaded the bolts, then tightened the bolts, working around the jack.
    On the passengerside I drilled hole fore and aft and threaded and tightened these two bolts.
    Then I removed the jack and drilled and threaded, and tightened the remainder, except the two that match up with the aux battery, sitting on the air compressor shelf.
    The passenger side has 6 bolts, the driver's side has 8. 13mm holes and 8.5mm holes, washers on the bolt and nut side.
    THe fitting kit came with steel spacers to stop the sill from collapsing. It is aluminium after all.
    BTW APT have 4 bolts per side. No spacers. All 10mm holes.

    Hang on Kaaaiju, you have rock sliders on your Disco!! Why ask? It took me maybe 4 hours all up. I'm not then fastest, I try to get it right the first time.
    They look like rock sliders but are elcheapo side steps

  10. #5180
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    3,244
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    They look like rock sliders but are elcheapo side steps
    Bolted to what?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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